There has been much discussion regarding hot melts. I was a cabinet maker for >30 years. We used Titebond II , a cross-linking polyvinyl acetate, for general edge and build up gluing. For difficult woods, i.e. teak, in a marine environment, we used the West epoxy system. A urea resin for vacuum bag assembly. Then the PUR polyurethane hot melt and a typical hot melt general adhesive. The PUR systems were expensive and costly to maintain. The gun was huge subject to frequent clogging when not used regularly. The regular hot melt system worked fine. The only drawback was the objectionable width of the glue line. We used it for positioning, where the component was concealed form view. 3M has several professional quality hot melts that are applicable for adhering fabrics to wood. These can be viewed at: http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtmxT64Xz6EVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666-- A recommended adhesive is the #3747 http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_nid=0PCN3JPSR6beZQPDN395GTgl As with all initial applications, I check with technical support for suitability prior to use. Do not confuse the "WalMart" hot melts with professional products as supplied by 3M and others. What do you use for adhering felts? Have a great holiday, Chip Tuthill Tuthill's Piano Service Mancos, CO Assoc. Member PTG -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20091224/3de48d33/attachment.htm>
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