I always glue size with key bushings & hot hide glue. David Ilvedson Pacifica, CA On Dec 30, 2009, at 12:10 PM, Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> wrote: David Stocker wrote: PVC-E has some gap filling capacity, but the straighter the surface, the better. Much depends on how you surface the key. I find if I actively press down on the entire length of the top, I have few problems. I may have a couple with some air gaps that can be fixed with some glue on a pallet knife. It's another of my many personal gripes, I suppose. I don't much like finding I have to fix something I've just done. It happens anyway, but I try to minimize the need when I can. I have an old Oslund key machine set, so flat tops and square fronts aren't a problem for the key sticks. Tops are another story. I think like the idea of masking tape better than a spring clamp. I'm sure the spring clamp works better, but if I don't have to own another large uni-tasker tool, . . . That's why I started doing the tape. I had it right there. Glue sizing sounds interesting, if it increases PVC-E's effectiveness. Does it? Seems to me it would make more problems than it solved. The fuzzed surface of the planed key doesn't bother thick PVCE. It just lays down and doesn't interfere. Get it good and hard with absorbed glue sizing, and it seems to me it would get in the way. I haven't tried it on key tops, but that's the way it works in other cases. Ron N
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