How about the really old metal heater bars? Are they something to perhaps junk? They've been here many many years....They work, but should I trust them? Thanks Paul "Dean May" <deanmay at pianorebuilders.com> Sent by: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org 01/31/2009 08:56 PM Please respond to pianotech at ptg.org To <pianotech at ptg.org> cc Subject Re: [pianotech] Red light on Humidistate. I've had three of these bars fail this year, and I haven't seen 3 fail in the previous 15 years. I don't know why. Yes, always use the plastic sleeve. You can even use it on the older systems that use clamps with pop rivets. Since you can't remove the bar to slide the sleeve over it you have to get creative. Just take your scissors and slit the sleeve its entire length. Now you can drape the sleeve over the bar. If the low water warning sensor is the snap on variety, snap it off first, then snap it back on over the draped sleeve. If the sensor is the variety that uses a riveted clamp, just cut a notch in the sleeve so it will fit on either side of it. Then drape the pads over the draped sleeve. It works perfect and will save that bar from getting corroded. The sleeves are cheap (about $3/dz) but you have to order them separate from the pads as they don't ship nearly enough in the case of pads. Get yourself 4 dozen and be done with it for awhile. Here is another tip: If you buy the pads by the case, and everyone should, those pads are about 36" long. They are long enough for the ancient style of vertical tank. The old style vertical tank (not ancient but pre-universal) only needs 2/3 of that length. So if you cut off 1/3 for the old grand tanks, you have enough left for the pre-universal vertical tanks. You need 2 pads each of the following lengths: For ancient vertical: the entire strip For old vertical (pre-universal): 2/3 of the strip (instructions say use entire strip) For old grand: 1/3 of strip (instructions say use 1/2 of strip) For new universal tank: 1/2 of strip Using these measurements will get you a few more installations for each case of pads (as compared to the instructions) which means more money in your pocket. You don't need to be very precise, either. Just get them close and they work. 1/3 of the strip just happens to be about the length of my scissors which is what I use to eyeball it. Dean Dean May cell 812.239.3359 PianoRebuilders.com 812.235.5272 Terre Haute IN 47802 -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of John Ross Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 8:58 PM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Red light on Humidistate. The problem is that the humidifier heater bar needs replacing. At least that is what I found with the three that had that problem for me. Luckily, they wee still under warranty. The fix so that it doesn't happen in the first place is to make sure to use the plastic sleeve, over the heater rod, to stop it corroding. John Ross ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Lindquist" <rrlindquist at peoplepc.com> To: "pianotech-ptg.org" <pianotech at ptg.org> Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 8:03 PM Subject: [pianotech] Red light on Humidistate. Greetings, Just wondering if others are having problems with the D.C. Humidistate and the red light going on with no smart bar installed. I've just had my third one with this problem. Just before, or with 2 of them just after the 5 year warranty runs out. I've had the old ones, 25 + years old and still working fine. Had nothing but problems with the early smart bars and now the humidistates. Would like to hear from you if you are starting to have this problem. Ron Lindquist -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech_ptg.org/attachments/20090201/ce133323/attachment.html>
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC