BTW, Ron N mentioned to use epoxy impregnated Delignit as a replacement material. Do you think that omitting the "impregnated" and going with a standard Delignit piece would be sufficient? Sure, like Ron replied, it's better to do it, but traditional methods do not include that. I believe he is referring to putting a drop of epoxy on the bridge pin before driving it into the bridge - it's something I always do when driving a new pin into a new bridge/cap. 5 inches long and 3/4 inch wide is not a problem with an epoxy repair. You can also use a clamp to bring the bridge chunks into something-approximating-original-position. Again, it all depends on the condition of the piano. If this is the one-in-a-zillion 100+-year-old piano that is in great shape, then a proper repair is perhaps warranted, but if the piano is like most 100+-year-old-pianos - just epoxy the sad little appendage up and call it a day...... Terry Farrell -----Original Message----- The bridge split is about 5 inches long and 3/4 inch wide at its max (towards treble). Many bridge pins have come right out of their hole and migrated towards the right. As I mentioned in another post earlier today, it is very difficult to get piano stuff shipped to Canada - never mind chemicals. I've seen your previous pics on epoxy impregnated bridges. But obtaining a few ounces of West System epoxy will probably be extremely costly. BTW, Ron N mentioned to use epoxy impregnated Delignit as a replacement material. Do you think that omitting the "impregnated" and going with a standard Delignit piece would be sufficient? Thanks Epoxy Man ! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech_ptg.org/attachments/20090223/e286f11c/attachment.html>
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