In a message dated 3/21/2009 10:20:03 A.M. Central Daylight Time, erwinspiano at aol.com writes: Paul By the way it is my opinion that the dag is useless in regards to friction. I contend that it simply aids in visual contrast when the bridge notching person is at work. Notching with a clear finish requires an acquired skill and good light to see that the chisel splits the center line of the bridge pin array and into the notch. I suspect the skill is equally acquired either way, Dale. Notching is one of my favorite things! The natural finish makes obvious aesthetic beauty of the nice maple wood one chose. It also screams custom restoration...look at me! lol Yes, and it is a reason that I have hesitated. Unless a piano is being restored speculatively, there is much conservatism about some elements of the piano restoration among contracted clients. We do all our work by contract and don't buy and sell. Paul Dale -----Original Message----- From: PAULREVENKOJONES at aol.com To: pianotech at ptg.org Sent: Fri, 20 Mar 2009 10:35 pm Subject: Re: [pianotech] Soundboard Lacquer Finish Dale: Is it your opinion (and others welcome!) that DAG or other purported friction-reducing finishes on bridge tops are simply traditional? Is there a real argument against them? For them? Your (and others') natural bridge tops are quite lovely, I have to say, and I am tempted. Paul In a message dated 3/20/2009 10:05:56 P.M. Central Daylight Time, _erwinspiano at aol.com_ (mailto:erwinspiano at aol.com) writes: Awesome Paul I get it. I've used a New Product for me called "Rot Doctor." A two part epoxy resin with natural wood resin as well. I think they call it CPES. I posted about last week. Was using shellac previously sprayed on sanded out & steel wooled & buffed. With this I simply brush it on several times let dry over night & it looks very similar to the shellac only it penetrates farther & it is harder. Interestingly it doesn't' mess with my bridge pin fit even applied liberally which means it is penetrating. It's a time saver & a better harder outcome. No sanding, no notch painting later. Looks good. I'll repost the picture. Dale Even though I don't put as much "back" into the finishing, I love to work with the board, before and after it's in, trimming it out and getting it ready for the next major belly steps. It represents a major achievement in the craft we pursue, and although I do use Andre's and don't make my own boards (at least not yet, with space and time issues), handling, fitting, treating, and finally seeing the expanse of finely shaped wood in place is still breath-taking to me. After 22 years of soundboard installation. Still a wonder. Bridge work is right up there, too! I'm considering going to the untreated top surface. Have been using the traditional DAG for years. What do you do on the tops for finish? Paul In a message dated 3/20/2009 6:59:23 P.M. Central Daylight Time, _erwinspiano at aol.com_ (mailto:erwinspiano at aol.com) writes: Paul looks like amber shellac over a very white Engleman board from Bolduc. Nice color. It appears that Stwy used amber shellac on all their old pre 1950s boards. Why brush on? I spray on one good wet coat as a sealer coat. Let dry over night & then Scuff it, then spray on 2 good coats of sealer, sand it out & then 2 good wet coats of gloss lacquer. Wet sand with 400,600, Then water wet steel wool on an flat automotive rub out hand tool which hold sandpaper & steel wool beautifully. Nice straight lines. It has a handle. Hand polish with Maguire swirl remover & a t-shirt cloth folded with no seams or creases It's a pretty nice look. On the bottom I don't rub out. Let it shine Dale Actually, here is a pic of a recent soundboard installation (bridges not yet sealed)...Mason AA...if you look closely, you can see the satin sheen result, and the color is just the way I like it, too. Paul In a message dated 3/19/2009 10:38:35 P.M. Central Daylight Time, _bill at a440piano.net_ (mailto:bill at a440piano.net) writes: ____________________________________ Live traffic, local info, maps, directions and more with the NEW MapQuest Toolbar. _Get it now_ (http://www.mapquest.com/toolbar?ncid=emlwemqmq00000003) ! ____________________________________ A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. _See yours in just 2 easy steps!_ (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1219619459x1201345309/aol?redir=http://www.f reecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=MarchfooterNO62) ____________________________________ Live traffic, local info, maps, directions and more with the NEW MapQuest Toolbar. _Get it now_ (http://www.mapquest.com/toolbar?ncid=emlwemqmq00000003) ! ____________________________________ A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. _See yours in just 2 easy steps!_ (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220863691x1201421954/aol?redir=http://www.f reecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=MarchfooterNO62) ____________________________________ Live traffic, local info, maps, directions and more with the NEW MapQuest Toolbar. _Get it now_ (http://www.mapquest.com/toolbar?ncid=emlwemqmq00000003) ! **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. 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