[pianotech] Hammer Line Issue

[Matthew Todd]

I already have all that Ed, but thanks for your concern!  Just utilizing the functionality of this list, as it is, I hope, one of it's intentions!


TODD PIANO WORKS 
Matthew Todd, Piano Technician 
(979) 248-9578
http://www.toddpianoworks.com

--- On Fri, 5/8/09, Ed Sutton <ed440 at mindspring.com> wrote:

From: Ed Sutton <ed440 at mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Hammer Line Issue
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Date: Friday, May 8, 2009, 11:29 AM



Matthew-
 
To be an effective technician, you need to learn to diagnose problems effectively.
In this situation, for example, it is often a 10 minute repair if you start with the right diagnosis.
You are in a large metropolitan area.
You should be able to find someone to serve as a mentor and give you some hands-on help.
In the right store, a year or two of dealer work would give you opportunities to learn under direct supervision and gain the experience you need.
Please ask your chapter for help.
 
Ed

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Israel Stein 
To: pianotech at ptg.org 
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 9:01 PM
Subject: [pianotech] Hammer Line Issue

Hello,

I have followed this with a great deal of interest, and at this point I feel myself compelled to chime in. The hammer bobbling, or dithering or whatever you want to call it (assuming that this is strictly a regulation problem) can be caused by either the keydip being too shallow, or the strike distance being too long. If the problem is the keydip, this in turn could have been caused by the key level having dropped (due to settling of the balance punchings) or  whatever other reason. Before deciding what to do, one should:

1. Measure the strike distance. If it's 2 inches - the problem isn't keydip. 
2. Measure the keydip. If it's 7/16 in. (11 mm.) or more - I wouldn't go any deeper... 
3. Check the key level with relation to the keyslip. Is there a "dip" in the middle of the keyboard? Well, then you level the keys before going any further. Of course to do this, one needs to know the parameters for key level with relation to the balance pins, key slip, front pin, etc. 

Matthew, like the man said - learn how the action works and how the various functions interrelate. And get familiar with plausible  regulation specs. Get the manufacturer's specs and see if the piano is anywhere close to them. 

Just telling Matthew to "do this" and "do that" without any context doesn't do much good either for his learning curve or for his client... Often this sort of approach will solve a problem at the cost of creating two new ones. Sort of like digging a second hole to bury the dirt from digging the first one. 

Israel Stein 



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