[pianotech] Gulbransen pedals

Paul T Williams pwilliams4 at unlnotes.unl.edu
Wed May 13 08:15:23 MDT 2009


How long have you found it takes to cure before letting the students pound 
on it (pedals)? 

Paul




"Dean May" <deanmay at pianorebuilders.com> 
Sent by: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org
05/13/2009 08:35 AM
Please respond to
pianotech at ptg.org


To
<pianotech at ptg.org>
cc

Subject
Re: [pianotech] Gulbransen pedals






JB Weld is amazing stuff. I carry it in my case now, the two tubes are 
pretty small and don’t weigh anything. 
 
Another pedal repair job it is useful for: the stamped steel pedals formed 
into a U shape, the pivot rod knurling will wallow out the hole. Just put 
the pin in place, slather JB weld around it, even fill the middle area of 
the pedal with it. It works great. 
 
I ran across this problem 40 miles from home. I just went to the local 
auto parts store as they all carry JB Weld and bought some. 
 
Dean
Dean May             cell 812.239.3359 
PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272 
Terre Haute IN  47802

From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On 
Behalf Of paul bruesch
Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 6:02 PM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Gulbransen pedals
 
A repair I recently did (and sadly neglected to take photos...) was on a 
1954 Gulbransen spinet. The pedal had been repaired once already, possibly 
twice. It had been brazed, I believe, then "reinforced" with some thin 
metal straps attached with nuts/screws through the vertical holes. 

When I first encountered it, it was broken in two places. I went to Lowe's 
or Menard's and bought some aluminum channel, and also some 2mm flat 
aluminum, and some JB Weld. First experience with JB Weld and I am very 
impressed. Mixed it up and slopped the channel full, dropped the pedal 
parts in, and covered the top with the 2mm flat. Let it cure for about a 
week, filed off the excess and installed it in the piano. I'm pretty sure 
it's about 100x stronger than original.

Only thing to watch for is that the opening in the front of the piano is 
large enough to accomodate the pedal's larger stem, which it was in this 
case. None of the aluminum is visible with the piano in its normal 
configuration (i.e. knee panel on)

Paul Bruesch
Stillwater, MN

On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 4:39 PM, <wimblees at aol.com> wrote:
Chet

If they are broken, it's the cast iron stem that usually breaks. A welder 
should be able to weld the stem back together. I have done that many 
times. 
Willem (Wim) Blees, RPT
Piano Tuner/Technician
Mililani, Oahu, HI
808-349-2943
Author of: 
The Business of Piano Tuning
available from Potter Press
www.pianotuning.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Chet Kieffer <pianotuner at nedernet.net>
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Sent: Mon, 11 May 2009 9:58 am
Subject: [pianotech] Gulbransen pedals
Does anyone out there have a set of Gulbransen spinet pedals circa 1948? 
Please contact me off list. 
 



We found the real 'Hotel California' and the 'Seinfeld' diner. What will 
you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com. 
 

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20090513/23df0e67/attachment-0001.htm>


More information about the pianotech mailing list

This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC