[pianotech] Removing a Steinway Pinblock

William Monroe bill at a440piano.net
Sun May 24 17:05:50 MDT 2009


Hi Al,

To address a couple things folks haven't responded to yet:

Yes, the block is (at least usually) doweled into the front stretcher (case
cornice in S&S lingo).  If memory serves, it's five dowels, the end ones are
about 2.5" - 3" in from the case sides, one in the middle of the case
cornice, and two more, evenly spaced between the middle and ends.  So if you
use Alcohol and water, you'll have to slip in a thin saw to cut the dowels.
I've used a backed block placed on the stretcher and struck with a mallet,
as well as a chisel occasionally to help start/continue a separation.  One
drawback to the Alcohol/Water solution I found happened on a recent project
where there was a crack in the stretcher that allowed the solution to reach
the face veneer.  Made a little mess with the veneer coming off, but it was
repairable.  It did (mostly work), though it was a lot of time/banging, and
I still had to clean things up later with a hand plane.

I've also used the DeWalt 304PK.  You are correct in that there is still a
bit of clean up as the saw leaves a good 1/2" of material.  It's flush
cutting if you're doing rough construction.  It's not remotely flush for
piano work.  ;-]      That said, if you like using a recip saw, this is the
one I'd recommend.  Very easy to get a nice straight cut without danger of
damaging any finish.  Clean up with an electric hand plane (fastest and
pretty safe) or hand plane.

Enjoy the process.

William R. Monroe


On Sun, May 24, 2009 at 4:08 PM, Al Guecia/AlliedPianoCraft <
AlliedPianoCraft at hotmail.com> wrote:

>  Dear List,
>
> I know this has been discussed before, but I'm about to replace another
> Steinway pinblock and would like to find the most efficient and easiest way
> to proceed. I remember using a hand held circular saw on my first pinblock
> (35 years ago, very young and foolish, very scary, much too dangerous and
> too much hand work). I am now using a reciprocating saw (still too much hand
> work).
>
> I know of three methods that I have not tried and one wild and crazy
> thought.
>
> 1) The DeWalt DW304PK. Looks like this saw will be able to cut pretty close
> to the stretcher with not too much hand work afterwards. I think this would
> be much better that the recip I've been using.
>
> 2) The alcohol and water method. I don't know how time consuming this
> method is, but it seems to me, there wouldn't be too much handwork involved.
>
> 3) The Bolduc router method, (that looks pretty scary to me also), and also
> requires quite a bit of handwork.
>
> 4) And now a wild and crazy thought. I have an small, electric, chain saw.
> I was thinking about making up a jig to hold the saw and ride the stretcher.
> I just want to through this one out there to see if anyone has tried it or
> thought about it. I think this will still require a bit, but not too
> much hand cleanup afterwards.
>
> All suggestions to make this job easier with less grunt work will be
> greatly appreciated.
>
> Al
>
>
>
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