To me, the picture just seems to offer visual evidence of why we should
not take the bass leg off and set the piano on the lyre in the first place,
when there are other and better ways to do it. Like making a couple of
blocks so that the skid board will be setting just about the top of the
dolly, and setting the bass side down on it after you have first removed the
lyre and then the bass leg. Much easier and safer to set the piano on the
dolly that way, as you have only to tilt down one end of the skid board to
be able to remove the first block, then lever up the other end to remove the
second block. Or even make a temporary support leg that sits a little tall
so that you can safely and easily take the lyre and bass leg off before
setting the piano on its side.
I dont think anyone has mentioned it, but I have concerns about the keybed.
Ive regulated more grands of all vintages than I could count. And while
leveling keys, you of course check the bedding of the keybed. So often we
see keybeds that are bowed up on the middle. I dont think keybeds were
designed to carry the weight of the piano, particularly on lighter and less
expensive grands. Think about it: the ends of the keybed are very well
supported by the rim, which in effect serves as a beam there making that
area quite strong. There is no such support in the middle of the keybed
where the piano is being set down on the lyre. Lets think about a 1200 lb
concert grand for a moment. How much weight is being carried by the keybed
if one sets the piano on the lyre after removing the bass leg? And
considerably more as we are tipping the piano on its side? 6, 7, 800 lbs.?
Im no physicist, but it just seems like an awful lot of stress for the
keybed to carry, never mind the poor stinkin lyre.
I have never allowed any of my movers to set the piano on the lyre in all
the years I have had pianos moved. They manage just fine without it.
Its not a bad lyre, its a bad idea and bad technique to move pianos this
way.
Thats my story, and Im sticking to it J.
Will Truitt
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Greg Newell
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 12:02 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Lyre Damage
Yeah but you still roll the corner of the bottom corner of the lyre. I know,
I know. You personally never do.
Greg Newell
Greg's Piano Forté
www.gregspianoforte.com
216-226-3791 (office)
216-470-8634 (mobile)
http://www.wealthyaffiliate.com?a_aid=NNaYfMKd
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Andrew Anderson
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 8:02 PM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Lyre Damage
On Nov 23, 2009, at 9:01 PM, David Stocker wrote:
Picture, please?
Dave Stocker, RPT
Tumwater, WA
From: Andrew <mailto:anrebe at gmail.com> Anderson
Sent: Monday, November 23, 2009 18:36
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Lyre Damage
I always use a lyre brace since a brand new chinese one broke its lyre when
I was tipping. No problems since.
You can by one from QRS or you can make your own.
length of steel electrical conduit
length of all-thread that just fits inside
a matching nut and washer
a length of 2x2
self adhesive felt lamp bottom covers
some type of flexible adhesive like PL400
cut the 2x2 into two reasonable lengths and drill one corner to accept
conduit/all-thread and adhesive
apply the self adhesive felt to the business sides of the 2x2s and you have
an adjustable brace.
Andrew Anderson
On Nov 23, 2009, at 5:42 PM, JWyatt1492 at aol.com wrote:
Hello Garrett,
I never tip a Oriental Grand Piano on the Lyre.
I tip all American Pianos except one, that being
the H.C.Bay.
Weak wood is always weak wood.
I have repaired too many pedal Lyres.
Regards
Jack Wyatt
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