[pianotech] Fwd: pinblock Question

[John Ross]

Obviously, my mind is going, of course that is what I should have realized. LOL
John Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: wimblees at aol.com 
  To: Pianotech at PTG.org 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 5:11 AM
  Subject: [pianotech] Fwd: pinblock Question




    Wim, am I hearing you correctly?
    Pinblock lasting up to ten years?
    Something sounds wrong with that statement???
    John Ross
  Not the pin block. The toilet bowl ring last 10 years, putting a little dab of bees wax on the plate screws in 8- 10 pin blocks a year.  


  Wim

  -----Original Message-----
  From: John Ross <jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca>
  To: pianotech at ptg.org
  Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2009 8:28 pm
  Subject: Re: [pianotech] pinblock Question


  Wim, am I hearing you correctly?
  Pinblock lasting up to ten years?
  Something sounds wrong with that statement???
  John Ross
  Windsor, Nova Scotia
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: wimblees at aol.com 
    To: pianotech at ptg.org 
    Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 12:16 AM
    Subject: Re: [pianotech] pinblock Question


    Add just a dab of Teflon powder to make it easier to > cut the threads. 
    > Gene 
     
    I've also found that either running a lag screw (long, with the head cut off, in an electric drill) with a similar thread in as a tap, or just forcing the sucker in cold with an impact driver, works pretty well too. 
     
    Ron N 


    A "cheap" way to help the screws in the pin block is a toilet bowl ring, made of bees wax. A little dab on each screw make it go is smooth. Averaging 5 - 8 pin blocks a year, I've had mine last up to 10 years, 

    Wim

    -----Original Message-----
    From: Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net>
    To: pianotech at ptg.org
    Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2009 5:14 pm
    Subject: Re: [pianotech] pinblock Question


    Gene Nelson wrote: 
    > Hi John, 
    > For the screws I have learned to use this technique that works ok - it > is a two step process and I like it better than a tapered bit for the > big pin block screws. 
    > Measure the shank (may be the wrong terminology - sorry)of the screw and > add 10% and that is the drill size for the threaded part. Flag the drill > for depth and dirll the hole. For the shoulder, use the same drill size > as the shoulder, flag the drill and redrill the hole to the depth of the > shoulder. 
    > Add just a dab of Teflon powder to make it easier to > cut the threads. 
    > Gene 
     
    I've also found that either running a lag screw (long, with the head cut off, in an electric drill) with a similar thread in as a tap, or just forcing the sucker in cold with an impact driver, works pretty well too. 
     
    Depends on where you stand and how you squint. 
    Ron N 
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