Hi Chuck: Let me add my two cents here. First, I would start with a pinblock that is the thickest you can get, since you are going to be taking quite a bit off. You can always joint it off the bottom if the finished block is still too thick, but you don't want to end up with a block that is way too thin. Plate height references from the original teardown, along with string heights and the shank center pin height are important. Assuming that the original plate height was reasonably correct for the action, you would want to get it back in the ballpark, and that new pinblock is going to control plate height for good or bad. The rebuilder who brought the block should have recorded this information from the piano before teardown. !/4" is a lot, but many of us have seen it before, along with the other weirdball stuff. Will Truitt From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Chuck Behm Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 12:55 PM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: [pianotech] Subject: Re: Curved cast iron plate question >Hi Chuck, I doubt you'll hear from many "Steinway Specialists", but a number of us "Generic Trench Troops" have seen this. It wasn't intentional, it's a random casting cooling event. Some are pretty flat, some aren't. You'll get plates that twist and curve in all sorts of directions. The block will conform to the plate if it's just screwed to it, but If you expect to have the block end up flush with the underside of the stretcher, you'll have to taper it like the factory did. This is a good excuse to look at power hand planers, if you haven't already. Ron N< Ron - Thanks for the info. I'm glad it's not "one of a kind" anyway. I do have a DeWalt hand planer, but it's probably too underpowered for this job. Good reason to go to Lowes for that Bosch planer I was looking at just the other day! Dang! Chuck -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20090915/ce854e87/attachment.htm>
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