I think I mentioned this earlier but I think the benefit of pin driving
fluid is as the name implies. It acts as a lubricant to ease with driving
the pins into the block and therefore the driving of the pin causes less
stress to the wood, less damage to the hole itself so that once the PDF is
absorbed into the end grain of the block the pin is left tighter than it
would otherwise be. Therefore, I don't think it much matters how pure the
resin is as long as it offers that lubricity and absorbs easily into the end
grain without leaving much foreign residue behind that might compromise the
"feel". At least that's my theory and I'm sticking to it, well, until
somebody shows me a better answer.
David Love
www.davidlovepianos.com
-----Original Message-----
From: David Love [mailto:davidlovepianos at comcast.net]
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 8:04 PM
To: 'pianotech at ptg.org'
Subject: RE: [pianotech] Pin Driving Fluid Search
Did you notice or note any difference in the ease with which the pins were
able to be driven with each one?
David Love
www.davidlovepianos.com
-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Ron Nossaman
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 6:26 PM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Pin Driving Fluid Search
jimialeggio wrote:
> I'm interested in experimenting with pin driving fluid.
I was curious too, so I did. A couple of months ago, I took a
cutoff from one of my hybrid blocks, double-drilled four sets
of three holes in it, and tried three arbitrary pin driving
fluids. The first row of dry driven pins (the control) were at
around 175lbs initially. All the fluid driven pins were
considerably lower initially.
The dry driven pins are still in the 170-175 range.
The second row, which was lacquer sanding sealer, are the
lowest, at around 100.
The third row, which was Danish oil, started out with very low
torque, snapping uncontrollably when moved. This was expected,
but I wanted to see where it would end up. Today, it's in the
170-175 range and all pins turn quite nicely. Functionally
similar to the dry driven, which surprised me.
The forth row was a solution of fresh mixed shellac and rosin
(sports supply). It started out fairly low in torque, but now
it's in the 170-190 range, and turns quite nicely. The
readings actually got higher than the dry driven, which also
surprised me.
So everything I tried (so far) worked about like everything
else, in spite of the rather more wide than usual criteria for
choice of fluid types. The big difference (so far) is the
"settle in" torque range.
So it seems to me (so far) that there's an awful lot of smoke
being generated in pin driving fluid Neverland. This does
*not* surprise me. Maybe 37.2154 years from now, everything
but the mythological and universally unobtainable ("Shoulda
been here last year. We had TONS of the stuff, but you can't
get it now") elixir of torque will spontaneously dissolve the
block. It would be fun to be around and see it not happen,
except that no one would either notice or care.
So my conclusion (so far) is that any sort of sheep dip you
can find that isn't obviously or logically outright
destructive will probably work about like any to-die-for,
unenlightened not eligible, secret handshake, glow in the
dark, heal the sick, raise the dead, payable in blood nostrum
that unobtainably remains eternally shimmering at the edge of
reality like the peripheral Boojums that dart past the doorway
when you are looking elsewhere.
But that could change.
Ron N
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