Hi John, I'm sorry, but I have to disagree with you about the prior sanding of the ivories. If you look carefully at the beginning of the sanding video, you can see that the ivory is worn in the middle. I think the first sanding was mostly to flatten the ivories. The peroxide alome might have whiten the ivories, but sometimes you really have to sand them flat in order to do a more even key level and consistent feel from one key to the next. But I do like your idea of polishing the ivories by hand to make them feel better. What kind of chalk are you using? Marcel >John Delacour wrote> > > The prior sanding of the ivories was quite unnecessary. The job > > could have been done with just peroxide (the cream, as I said, is > > more convenient and labour-saving) and the ivory polished afterwards. > > This way you lose no thickness of ivory. A few months ago I bleached > > a set that was far worse than this Steingraeber without needing to do > > any sanding. I don't use a buffing wheel to polish the ivory either > > since that abrades the softer "summer growth" more than the harder > > parts and it is always detectable. After bleaching I remove any > > scratches with P800 - 1200 wet-n-dry and then polish with chalk and > > alcohol on a hard block covered with white sheep leather. It's > > almost as quick and leaves a glass-like surface. _________________________________________________________________ Messenger sur votre téléphone = MI sur la route http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9724474 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20100422/c7990e7b/attachment-0001.htm>
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