Jim, I won't speak for JD, but when I do this job, I use a similar process, but use 1/4 sawn poplar for the insert. Then, when the job is done, the through hole is made "funnel shaped" enough simply by rocking the key back and forth on a jig with a clean balance rail pin installed on it. The jig allows the key to rock perhaps 3/4", rougly twice normal key travel. Once or twice is all that is needed. I suspect if you simply place the keys on their keyframe when done, with no back rail felt or front punchings, you'd have it too. Maybe even with punchings. I don't know, never tried it. William R. Monroe SNIP you simply say run the drill backward to center on the pilot hole and drill through the hornbeam. This will give you a hole the thickness of the hornbeam bushing. If it fits the pin precisely it cant pivot freely, so the hornbeam has to be relieved from the inside of the mortise. 1 How are you relieving the hornbeam from the inside to create a "funnel" shaped hole 2 (This is question that's tripping me up) in creating that funnel shaped hole, in order keep the hole at the bottom of the key a true circle fit precisely to the pin, the hole has to have no depth, ie the funnel has to come to a point at the bottom of the key. I don't think this is what you are doing as the hole would be elongated in quick order. On the other hand, if you leave the sides of the hole straight for 1-mm or some amount to give the hole some meat before it is relieved, then you have to introduce slop into the hole to let the key pivot. slop = clicks. how are you achieving the necessary freedom of movement and the snug-ish hole? Jim I -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20100801/e897147a/attachment.htm>
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