I press it down gently first to get squeeze out and then wipe the excess off the sides before setting the key down so that the glue isn't running down onto the platform. I do use PVC-E and haven't had any problems with it. A light clamping is all that's necessary and on tops with molded fronts this particular clamping arrangements holds the fronts securely to the front of the key while the glue sets. On the glue subject I imagine there are other glues that work well, maybe better, but I've not had a reason to look further so I haven't. I don't care to use contact cement as I find the failure rate high and the glue itself can mar the surface of the keytop if it gets on there. David Love www.davidlovepianos.com -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Greg Newell Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 9:29 AM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Applying PVC-E to new plastic keytops David, This seems a good idea for holding key top and key in place but, in your experience, is placing the two under the spring enough to provide squeeze out by itself or do you squeeze excess out before placing under the spring? Greg Newell Greg's Piano Forté www.gregspianoforte.com 216-226-3791 (office) 216-470-8634 (mobile) http://www.wealthyaffiliate.com?a_aid=NNaYfMKd -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of David Love Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 11:40 AM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Applying PVC-E to new plastic keytops Why would that be necessary? The key goes in the clamp with the keytop side down to the flat wooden surface (usually covered with a piece of felt so as not to scratch the keytop) so the direct pressure from the spring is on the bottom of the key. The span of the keytop is short enough to preclude any flexing from pressure in the middle. The wooden bar to which the springs are attaché is raised just slightly off the surface of the platform, just enough that the lip of the keytop can slide under it and the front is then pressed up against the wooden bar to insure that the front is clamped as well. David Love www.davidlovepianos.com David Love's simpler spring clamps should work just fine. The only change I would make to that system if I made it would be to raise the clamp bar so you could fit a relieved caul under the clamp. A relieved caul does not contact the key in the center portion of the key, only at the ends. That way the pressure applied by the spring at the center of the key is actually applied at the front and back of the key/keytop not the middle. Jim I Grandpianosolutions.com(almost launched)
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