[pianotech] Chickering Pedal Lyre

David Stocker firtreepiano at hotmail.com
Wed Jan 27 00:59:20 MST 2010


Chickering Pedal LyreI am inserting this link to show what tee nuts look like. They are better for this job than countersinking enough for nuts and washers. They are available in many local hardware stores. 

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products.ex?N=999600087&Nty=0

Drill a hole through the key bed and lyre the diameter of your bolt. 

Take a spade bit like the following the width of your tee nut , and sharpen the bottom of the spade so that it will cut like the top. 

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tool-Accessories-Drill-Bits-Auger-Spade/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh8Zb8mw/R-100352498/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Insert the shank of the bit from inside the action cavity through the hole, and attach it to your drill from below. Use this to counter sink enough so the tee nut will not interfere with the action. Keep the drill perpendicular, or your tee nut may not sit straight in the hole.

Use a bolt and washers, just long enough to get a solid grip, but not enough to gouge the key frame. Same method can be used for legs attached with screws when the holes are stripped beyond usefulness.


David Stocker, RPT
Tumwater, WA


From: Paul Milesi 
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 23:12
To: PTG Pianotech List 
Subject: [pianotech] Chickering Pedal Lyre


I'm having problems with 2 older Chickering grands, one a 1917, the other from the 30s.  The original design attaches their lyres to the underside of the keybed with two large wood screws put in at an angle of not quite 45º, and the screws seem to strip out.  When I first encountered this design, I almost couldn't believe it was used.

What's the best fix for this?  In both cases, previous techs have tried using larger screws, different angles, different locations, etc., and now the underside of the keybed is gouged.  I've read about drilling through the keybed from the top and countersinking, maybe with a washer, and using a nut-and-bolt approach?  In any case, I don't think replacing wood and reproducing the original design is desirable.

Specific guidance appreciated: limited woodworking experience.  Thanks!

Paul Milesi, RPT
Washington, DC
(202) 667-3136
E-mail:  paul at pmpiano.com
Website:  http://www.pmpiano.com
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