You can't use this method where the screw is drilled in at an angle. The best and easiest solution is to plug and redrill. Use pin block material for a lasting repair. Greg Newell Greg's Piano Forté www.gregspianoforte.com 216-226-3791 (office) 216-470-8634 (mobile) http://www.wealthyaffiliate.com?a_aid=NNaYfMKd -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of David Ilvedson Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 2:30 AM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Chickering Pedal Lyre Definitely drill through and use the T-nuts. I will remove a little keybed material, ala bowl shaped so the female is pull down into the keybed. You will need a bunch of lengths...I can't remember the size I use. ...maybe 5/16. Have lots of washers so you don't have the bolt coming up above the keybed. David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA 94044 ----- Original message ---------------------------------------- From: "Paul Milesi" <paul at pmpiano.com> To: pianotech at ptg.org Received: 1/26/2010 11:12:27 PM Subject: [pianotech] Chickering Pedal Lyre >I¹m having problems with 2 older Chickering grands, one a 1917, the other >from the 30s. The original design attaches their lyres to the underside of >the keybed with two large wood screws put in at an angle of not quite 45º, >and the screws seem to strip out. When I first encountered this design, I >almost couldn¹t believe it was used. >What¹s the best fix for this? In both cases, previous techs have tried >using larger screws, different angles, different locations, etc., and now >the underside of the keybed is gouged. I¹ve read about drilling through the >keybed from the top and countersinking, maybe with a washer, and using a >nut-and-bolt approach? In any case, I don¹t think replacing wood and >reproducing the original design is desirable. >Specific guidance appreciated: limited woodworking experience. Thanks! >Paul Milesi, RPT >Washington, DC >(202) 667-3136 >E-mail: paul at pmpiano.com >Website: http://www.pmpiano.com
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