Hi Chuck, Haven't used Abels on the WNGs, but shouldn't be an issue. RE the bore hole, you might order the drill bit from the WNG site and have it shipped to Schaff, then back to you with the hammers. I had Dale Erwin prep a set of Weikerts per my specs, but he went ahead and ordered the WNG bit for himself figuring he would need it again. Bit can be found at http://www.wessellnickelandgross.com/index.php/tools/misc-tools/hammer-drill-bits-bass.html I prefer brad-points for boring hammers, but this WNG-offered bit is not brad-point. Drill bits are not very expensive, and you might locate a 3/16" brad-point (0.1875"), which is the closest size to the WNG 4.7mm bit (0.185"). The extra 0.0025" extra on the 3/16" might be nice to have as I had to ream almost all hammers a little bit. The OD of the WNG shanks calls out @ 4.67 mm, but in reality this varies enough on the high side that the 3/16" brad bit might be a good choice. But experimentation would be in order. In any case, boring the hammers with smaller size bits is not different than we are used to; Schaff should not have a problem with this. RE the glue, the consensus (albeit of a relatively small sample) seems in favor of CA gel. Ask WNG about this, they probably have a recommendation. In fact, a recent post by JD seemed to indicate that WNG has the stuff and may be offering it to techs. RE "other practical suggestions": before you commit to wholesale installation of the whippens, install only a few samples of hammer/shank/whip combos and regulate (doesn't even have to be exacting). The issue is to obtain sure-footed hammer rise without having to weaken the springs too much. I take it you have read the posts on this issue, especially those by Will Truitt. In my own case (new run of hard-bushed parts) I will be trying Will's fix to the rep spring coil post-mounting, and may also repin the rep lever for higher torque. At present I am not able to regulate the rep springs for sure-footed lift, or for correct speed of lift, while at the same time maintaining a positive, snappy jack return. Also, if haven't already done so, view the online video at the WNG site RE installing whippens. In most cases (if not all) the front edge of the whip rail will needs to be beveled so as to allow clearance for the boat-bottomed shape of the whippen beams. Good luck! On Fri, Jun 25, 2010 at 6:47 AM, Chuck Behm <behmpiano at gmail.com> wrote: > Hello everyone. I'm glad this topic came up when it did. I've got an action > to an 1885 Weber grand torn apart on a couple of benches, with WNG parts > ready to install. I'm keeping the old action rails and wooden spacer / > brackets for the rails, but am installing new repetitions, hammer shanks, > capstans, and backchecks. I'm also doing the back action for the dampers > with all new parts. > > Here's my question. I've planned all along to order my hammers (Abel) from > Schaff. Has anyone had experience with using their hammers on the WNG > shanks? Usually I have them bore my hammers - I'm hoping that isn't a > problem with the small shank size. Anyone have experience with having them > do this? > > Also, the topic of glue to use has been brought up. Is a thicker CA glue > the consensus? What brand? > > Again, I'm really glad to read all the discussion on this topic. Any other > practical suggestions from people who have worked through the process would > be appreciated. Chuck Behm > -- Nick Gravagne, RPT AST Mechanical Engineering -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20100625/ad617e5a/attachment.htm>
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