Frank, Thank you very much for your explanation. There is no aluminum at all in this piano except for the mute... Tomorrow I go back to the piano to finish the regulation and I'll take more specific photos so all of you who kindly answered can see this particular piano. Thanks again, Rafael Huberman On 17/05/2010, at 10:04 p.m., George F Emerson wrote: Rafael, your photo shows what appears to be an aluminum rail along the bass edge of the keybed. I am not familiar with this particular model, but it appears that it could be an exposed portion of an aluminum skeletal keybed, faced top and bottom with an 1/8" "door skin" panel. If so, it may be similar to other makes/models with which I am familiar. Many Wendl & Lung uprights have aluminum keybeds. The bottom, only, is faced with an 1/8" "door skin" panel, which really serves no purpose other than blocking a daylight view of the floor between the keys of the keyboard. The keyslip is attached with 6 screws from the back side, through the front U-channel of the aluminum keybed, horizontally into the keyslip. All of the keys can be removed to locate and remove the screws from the back onto the keyslip. Alternatively, the kick panel can be removed and the 1/8" panel can be removed from the bottom, by removing 12 screws along the front and back edges. This will expose the 6 screws which can then be removed from the bottom, inside the U-channel going horizontally from the rear into the keyslip. Given this level of difficulty removing the keyslip, you might find it more practical to get comfortable with the idea of leveling keys with the keyslip in place. On the positive side, the greater stability of this keybed should make the need for key leveling less frequent. Within the last year, a few Hailun pianos were produced for the American market, with this aluminum keybed. The intent was to improve the keybed stability. Later, when the problems associated with removing the keyslip became apparent, we made changes to locate 4 screws for keyslip removal where you are accustomed to finding them, vertically along the front edge of the keybed, removed from the bottom, and immediately accessible. Even so, a few escaped into the US market before we made this improvement. If you should run across one of the older style aluminum keybeds, and are so inclined to remove the bottom 1/8” panel to get to the keyslip screws, you might want to consider cutting notched into the bottom panel before replacing it, to give access to the keyslip screws for the next time the keys need leveling. If so, it would be a good idea to leave no rough edges, to snag the ladies’ stockings. Frank Emerson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20100518/c26618de/attachment.htm>
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