Paul A long time ago there was a new Samick grand at a dealer with loose pins. They opted to have me repin the piano. But that was Samick. I'm surprised that Schimmel would opt for that solution. The reason the pins are loose is because during the drilling process at the factory, the bit became dull, which caused the sides of the hole to burnish. So when you replace the pins, you will need to ream out the holes, or at least brush them clean with a 22 caliber rifle bore cleaner. Do 6 notes at a time. As was suggested, you need to make sure you keep the string separated. Release the tension one turn, then remove the beckets for six notes, and then remove the pins with a drill. I would go with one size larger pins, and pound them in leaving enough room to turn them 2 turns after replacing the beckets. . You want to do this in your shop. You don't want to take all your tools to a customer's home, and you don't want to have them seeing your mistakes, which you will make the first two hours of doing this work. Since this is your first time doing an entire piano, I would plan on three days of work, including retuning the piano 4 times in your shop. You will also need to charge Schimmel to tune the piano in the customers home 4 times over a period of sixe months. You might also wind up breaking a few beckets, so that will also have to be dealt with later on. Good luck. You'll gain a lot of experience with this, so it's nice to have someone pay for your learning a new job. Wim -----Original Message----- From: paul bruesch <paul at bruesch.net> To: Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org> Sent: Thu, Oct 28, 2010 8:14 am Subject: [pianotech] Re-pinning I have a customer with a quite new (3-4 years old) Schimmel K120, a nice ~47" Studio. Nice, except that virtually all the tuning pins are barely tight enough to hold pitch, which of course makes it unpleasant to tune. I am in contact with Schimmel about this. They want to send me a set of oversize pins. I suppose anything would be an improvement, but I have a few apprehensions/questions/concerns... (1) I've never re-strung, nor re-pinned, an entire piano. I have replaced single pins here and there, and a dozen or two on an instrument (an S&S "B" that should have been getting rebuilt instead). On the dozen-or-two piano, I had a heck of a time tuning up to pitch when I replaced both pins of one wire. Should I replace one at a time? i.e. pull one pin, (ream/chase... see #2,) replace with new, pull up to pitch, pull other pin, lather rinse repeat? Seems like an incredible amount of tool-changing. (2) There's been much discussion on this list about reaming (chasing) for new pins on a restringing job, and about PDF/resin for driving the new pins. Any opinions as far as either of these topics for repinning a nearly-new piano? (3) For removing the old pins, would backing them out with a power drill generate too much heat? The alternative, manually backing out 200+ pins, seems like an incredible time suck. (4) How much time should I plan on, particularly given this is my first experience?? (5) Would the results be significantly better than CA'ing the block, and worth the effort? I do think that CA'ing a nearly new block sounds like a sacrilege! I do have a tilter which I would think I definitely want to use. Thanks much, Paul Bruesch Stillwater, MN -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20101028/78ae3fc0/attachment.htm>
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