You can apply an offsetting pressure to the lever that will compensate for the twisting of the pin such that the pitch will not change. Try it. From the 1:00 position apply pressure which is both down toward the speaking length and around as if you were moving the pin in the sharper direction. Do it without actually moving the pin in the block and you will see that you can apply quite a bit of pressure without the pitch changing at all. Now exert a bit more around pressure while adding a bit more downward pressure so that the pin moves in the block and, if you can, feel the amount of movement and learn to correlate that amount with a specific pitch change. With some practice you will be able to move the pin in the block from that place to your target pitch without any overshoot. When you release the pressure on the lever which is both exerting a twisting motion on the pin and forward press toward the string the net change resulting from that release of both will be zero and the pitch will stay exactly where it is, or very close. In fact, you can learn to do this with some undershoot, where you hold a slight amount of greater downward flex in the pin such that when you release it the pitch will rise to your target. That technique and ability has some benefit in certain cases such as with poorly rendering pianos. When you can hone those skills you will be able to tune directly to the target pitch with no overshoot or need for correction. It involves a somewhat different way of thinking about the lever position, direction of the applied pressure, pin, string segment, pitch interface. Your way works too and, in fact, is often needed when things don't react as planned or where other factors make the system I'm suggesting more difficult, such as very tight or snappy tuning pins. But as a fundamental plan of attack, I think yours (which I realize represent the traditional approach) is less direct, requires more moves and therefore takes longer, doesn't work as well with pianos that don't render well and, as I mentioned in another post, can contribute to a higher degree of string breakage in pianos that have severe rendering problems. It's just an offering of another method. Do it however you choose, as I'm sure you will. David Love www.davidlovepianos.com -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Ron Nossaman Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2011 8:33 PM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Hammer Technique: was Q & A Roundtable On 2/1/2011 9:52 PM, John Formsma wrote: > I always overshoot by some amount. But it seems like it's the pin twist > that _is_ the overshoot. Yes, of course. And the only way to estimate the back twist with any accuracy is with the overshoot, and testing/settling. >Once you un-twist the pin, you can flex the pin > to see whether the pin and string are where you want them. That's it, to see where equilibrium is. >I tend to > think of it in these terms: any action I do to the pin can be undone. If > I move the pin the smallest amount in the block, I can un-twist and/or > un-flex it to the proper pitch. And if you can't find the comfortable balance where the pin is, you move the pin again. > It's hard to explain with words. Like you said, we "so rarely do the > same thing twice in a row." Yup. Ron N
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