[pianotech] Bridge pin locations help (image oops)

Nicholas Gravagne ngravagne at gmail.com
Fri Feb 4 14:28:07 MST 2011


Hi Gene,

>I believe that I learned it from Nick Gravagne.<

Probably from a class a gave about 100 years ago in the bay area.

Gene, although I don't see Keith doing this repair, I wanted to flesh
out your post:

I have used this procedure a number of times, but usually where the
front notch is in terrible shape. Like when well-meaning techs pull
bridge pins so as to "re-notch" and in the process yank out small bits
of dead wood which had existed between the pins:(

I have thus plugged for one pin, or two, or all three pins using this
procedure. A small and simple pattern is sometimes required so as to
re-locate (or improve upon)  the original pin holes upon the glued-in
and trimmed down plug. Of course, holes must cleanly punched then
angle-drilled using (most likely) a hand held 3/8" electric drill.

1) Forstner bits work best (or only work well at all) when the center
spur bites into something. When doing this repair first plug the
bridge pin hole/s with a glued in dowel ( and let dry) or else tight
fitting shoe pegs; give the spur something to bite and then bring on
the Forstner.

2)  Drill down with the Forstner at least 3/8" deep. Typical size
Forstners have been 3/8" and 1/2".

3)  I prefer for the plug to be quarter-sawn maple, but the choice is
yours. Before cutting the plug out of the mother board, pay attention
to the board's grain rise and fall so as to avoid tear out when
chiseling the plug flat and also when notching.  Then be sure to
orient the top of the plug grain to match the existing grain
orientation in the bridge cap, which more or less runs parallel
(usually) with the front and back edges of the bridge.

4)  Epoxy is not required as any good fast drying glue will work. I
prefer a good gap glue such as Garrett Wades gap filling, fast drying
glue for stuff like this.

5)  After chiseling and sanding the plug flat, Dag the plug and local
bridge top area before you punch, notch and pin (level pins if you
like). Finish the newly cut notch with varnish or some fast-drying
finish.

6)  Chisel/s must be very sharp!

7)   Practice this repair with maple scraps before you bring it
online. It's not hard, but unless you have the skill and feeling for
this work, better to check into spring training first.

See photos for some of this. I didn't have time to re-size these
photos to fit inside the text box, so you will have to open them
individually.

Nick


On Fri, Feb 4, 2011 at 10:32 AM, Gene Nelson <nelsong at intune88.com> wrote:
> Keith,
> Here is one option to consider.
> I did an in home repair once that worked for a bridge/unison that was in
> need of more help than yours.
> Just removed the strings, then removed the bridge pins on the speaking side
> of the offending note. Then centered a forsner bit over the bridge pin holes
> and notch, then drilled into the bridge root. Filled the hole with a
> Dilignit plug - epoxied it in. Then trimmed the plug flat to the bridge cap
> with a chisel, drilled new bridge pin holes and carved a new notch, inserted
> new bridge pins . Acton Dag hid the bulk of the repair. Worked just fine and
> not very difficult.
> I believe that I learned it from Nick Gravagne.
> Gene
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mr. Mac's" <tune-repair at allegiance.tv>
> To: <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2011 5:32 PM
> Subject: [pianotech] Bridge pin locations help (image oops)
>
>
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