[pianotech] Bridge pin locations help (image oops)

[Gene Nelson]

Thanks Nick,
Those are the important details.
Gene
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Nicholas Gravagne" <ngravagne at gmail.com>
To: <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2011 1:28 PM
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Bridge pin locations help (image oops)


> Hi Gene,
>
>>I believe that I learned it from Nick Gravagne.<
>
> Probably from a class a gave about 100 years ago in the bay area.
>
> Gene, although I don't see Keith doing this repair, I wanted to flesh
> out your post:
>
> I have used this procedure a number of times, but usually where the
> front notch is in terrible shape. Like when well-meaning techs pull
> bridge pins so as to "re-notch" and in the process yank out small bits
> of dead wood which had existed between the pins:(
>
> I have thus plugged for one pin, or two, or all three pins using this
> procedure. A small and simple pattern is sometimes required so as to
> re-locate (or improve upon)  the original pin holes upon the glued-in
> and trimmed down plug. Of course, holes must cleanly punched then
> angle-drilled using (most likely) a hand held 3/8" electric drill.
>
> 1) Forstner bits work best (or only work well at all) when the center
> spur bites into something. When doing this repair first plug the
> bridge pin hole/s with a glued in dowel ( and let dry) or else tight
> fitting shoe pegs; give the spur something to bite and then bring on
> the Forstner.
>
> 2)  Drill down with the Forstner at least 3/8" deep. Typical size
> Forstners have been 3/8" and 1/2".
>
> 3)  I prefer for the plug to be quarter-sawn maple, but the choice is
> yours. Before cutting the plug out of the mother board, pay attention
> to the board's grain rise and fall so as to avoid tear out when
> chiseling the plug flat and also when notching.  Then be sure to
> orient the top of the plug grain to match the existing grain
> orientation in the bridge cap, which more or less runs parallel
> (usually) with the front and back edges of the bridge.
>
> 4)  Epoxy is not required as any good fast drying glue will work. I
> prefer a good gap glue such as Garrett Wades gap filling, fast drying
> glue for stuff like this.
>
> 5)  After chiseling and sanding the plug flat, Dag the plug and local
> bridge top area before you punch, notch and pin (level pins if you
> like). Finish the newly cut notch with varnish or some fast-drying
> finish.
>
> 6)  Chisel/s must be very sharp!
>
> 7)   Practice this repair with maple scraps before you bring it
> online. It's not hard, but unless you have the skill and feeling for
> this work, better to check into spring training first.
>
> See photos for some of this. I didn't have time to re-size these
> photos to fit inside the text box, so you will have to open them
> individually.
>
> Nick
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 4, 2011 at 10:32 AM, Gene Nelson <nelsong at intune88.com> wrote:
>> Keith,
>> Here is one option to consider.
>> I did an in home repair once that worked for a bridge/unison that was in
>> need of more help than yours.
>> Just removed the strings, then removed the bridge pins on the speaking 
>> side
>> of the offending note. Then centered a forsner bit over the bridge pin 
>> holes
>> and notch, then drilled into the bridge root. Filled the hole with a
>> Dilignit plug - epoxied it in. Then trimmed the plug flat to the bridge 
>> cap
>> with a chisel, drilled new bridge pin holes and carved a new notch, 
>> inserted
>> new bridge pins . Acton Dag hid the bulk of the repair. Worked just fine 
>> and
>> not very difficult.
>> I believe that I learned it from Nick Gravagne.
>> Gene
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mr. Mac's" 
>> <tune-repair at allegiance.tv>
>> To: <pianotech at ptg.org>
>> Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2011 5:32 PM
>> Subject: [pianotech] Bridge pin locations help (image oops)
>>
>>
>