Hi, Alan, "First tighten all the screws. Then, make sure all the screws are tight." - Freddie Odenheimer Cheers! Horace At 04:54 PM 2/12/2011, you wrote: >Hi Susan, > >-----Original Message----- >From: Susan Kline <skline at peak.org> >To: pianotech <pianotech at ptg.org> >Sent: Sat, Feb 12, 2011 8:32 am >Subject: Re: [pianotech] Bad day in Truman > >On 2/12/2011 12:15 PM, Tom Driscoll wrote: >>And of course don't forget the catcher shank glue joint will also click .. >By all means, remember this, and also to tighten the flange screws. > > >The first thing I did after hearing the sound, yet not having the >hammers feel loose in my hand. > >While turning it upside down and dripping CA into the seams is an >eternal cure, it takes time and you would have to be sure to get the >hammer line straight very quickly, as it sets up so fast. > >As previously mentioned, these hammers don't rock, yet there is a >click, which seems to be a glue-starved joint at one or the other or >both ends of the shank. > >It might be safer to drip in titebond cut 1:1 with water. Turn it >back over and fix the hammer line when they are about half set up, >so they'll stay where you put them, would be my guess. > >In the field, where there are often just a few, I put some white >glue on the pinky of my right hand, and reach around the hammer >head, massaging the white glue into the joint of any hammer which >will twitch if tweaked. If it's loose enough to move up and down, >it's loose enough for some of the glue to work in. > >You have to be careful the white glue doesn't drip down enough to >glue the shank to the hammer rail cloth. For this, it's best to >check it pretty frequently after the glue is put on, wiping up >extra, and also seeing that the hammer head is setting up. (A few >are so loose they need a second dose.) When it's half set up is the >right time to get it in line with the others. > >It's much more thorough to pull the hammer right off to reglue it >(some will just come off if urged) but then you also have to be sure >that the hammer ends up pointed straight at the strings, and you >still have the possibility that the glue will drip down. While >turning the whole action upside down will get rid of the dribbling >glue problem (except on whatever is beneath the action, of course) >it also takes time, and would need to be charged for. Just gluing a >few loose hammers with the action in place takes so little time that >it can fit into a normal tuning fee, no trouble. > >I always prefer to avoid nickel-and-diming customers if at all >possible. It's annoying and a waste of time for all concerned. > >If I am going to re-glue half of the hammers on this baby (the >approximate quantity referenced in my original post), it's going to >cost more than both a nickel AND a dime together (two bits at LEAST, >I'd say ;-). > >Susan > >Thanks for your useful input, as always. > >Alan E. >
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