On 12/9/2012 11:37 PM, David Love wrote: > I’ve been using TB Trim and Molding glue for years now for hammers. > I don’t find any downside to it. Joe, what do you mean about > “chasing voicing”. It removes easily with a bit of heat. Forms > nice collar, does everything it’s supposed to do, IMO. I agree. Though I don't use it for hammers, a lot of people do with good result. > Hide glue for felt, leather etc. is good but for gluing on hammers, I > find it’s less trustworthy unless you are very careful about the > proper viscosity, has limited working time. I find more loose > hammers from hide glue than from TB Trim glue by far. Most folks who have trouble with hot glue for hammers are either using too high a gram strength (Schaff) or scraping the glue off the shank with the sharp edge of their hammer bore. Putting a quick chamfer on the bore edge with a countersink (or whatever) funnels glue into the joint instead of scraping it off and makes a much more easily managed and secure assembly. I haven't had a loose hammer in over 30 years since I started doing this. Keeping hide glue the "right" viscosity is automatic for those who use it regularly, and a few seconds every hour or two to add a dash or water if necessary isn't too heavy a burden. Everything has it's own baggage/benefit ratio. Like everything else - whatever works. > I do like Bolduc’s glue for soundboards and bridge caps. Assembly 65, available from Mason&Hamlin, is a nice glue as well. Ron N
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