I’ve probably forgotten a few details—it’s been close to thirty years since I’ve done one—but once you’re started it should go along fairly smoothly. ddf Don't forget that the spoons need to be regulated, too. With all that needs to be done, as Del, and I have said, make sure the customer is willing to pay for this. Wim -----Original Message----- From: Delwin D Fandrich <del at fandrichpiano.com> To: pianotech <pianotech at ptg.org> Sent: Mon, Jan 2, 2012 6:19 am Subject: Re: [pianotech] Plastic Damper flanges You’ll not find any specifications for this kind of work. You do what you can with what you can find. And you’ll have a talk with your client about the economic feasibility of going ahead with the repair. The piano may not be worth the effort. Having said that—and assuming the client wants to spend the money—the repair procedure is fairly straight forward. n If you’re lucky you might find two pieces of the same flange to measure but why bother? Your choices for replacement flanges are rather limited; buy the one with the spring length that best fits. n Remove the rest of the flanges from the damper levers. Do not install the new flanges yet. n Sort the levers into piles by damper type; mono-chords to the left, bi-chords next, then tri-chords (if there are any) and, finally the pads. n Now start putting them in order using the damper type as an initial guide. Lay them out side-by-side with a board under the wood levers (so they will lie as flat as you can get them) and sort by the amount of bend in the damper wires. n The bends will be fairly progressive and obvious to the discerning eye. You probably won’t get them perfect but you should be able to get them fairly close to the right order just by looking. You want the bends to look progressive. n Once they are sorted you can install the new flanges and screw them to the rail. Before installing the action stand back and take a last look at the back of the action; you may want to swap around a few for a better side-to-side fit. Thinking about this job is more intimidating than actually doing it. Once the action is in the piano you’ll need to adjust the side-to-side damper spacing and damper lift. This may also not be as bad in the doing as it is in the thinking about. It depends on how close the replacement damper flanges are to the originals. I’ve probably forgotten a few details—it’s been close to thirty years since I’ve done one—but once you’re started it should go along fairly smoothly. ddf Delwin D Fandrich Piano Design & Fabrication 6939 Foothill Court SW, Olympia, Washington 98512 USA Phone 360.515.0119 — Cell 360.388.6525 del at fandrichpiano.com — ddfandrich at gmail.com From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Rob McCall Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 2:29 AM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: [pianotech] Plastic Damper flanges Does anyone have any specs for this? Or does it look like the standard spinet flange from Schaff, etc. would work? Also, if anyone has any hints or tips as to how best to sort the pile of damper levers from the mayhem it's in, into the correct order it needs to be in, I'd appreciate it... and no, they aren't numbered... :-/ Regards, Rob McCall McCall Piano Service, LLC www.mccallpiano.com Murrieta, CA 951-698-1875 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20120102/04a6393d/attachment.htm>
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC