[pianotech] Finish Repair Question - Should be Case Repair Question

[David Love]

I think I responded to this in my other post but the process of using the
Lakewood product is a simple molded fill, no cutting, preshaping the
receiving end or fine tuning the size of the wood insert.  The finishing
benefits I outlined in my other post.  In terms of the ease of achieving the
final look, for me, I think the Lakewood product will be the best.  YMMV.

Again, I appreciate everyone's input.  Not interested in getting into an
argument here.  I just wanted to hear different approaches and I have, thank
you.  I think I've made a decision about it though.    

David Love
www.davidlovepianos.com


-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Encore Pianos
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2012 7:34 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Finish Repair Question - Should be Case Repair
Question

Yes, you would want to start by taking your square and laying it on top of
the rim at each end and scoring a mark.  Then taking a chisel and cutting it
out as cleanly as possible to be squared in that corner and at 90 degrees.
I would epoxy the wood piece in and to fill any voids that might exist with
strength, then follow that with wood putty of choice to fill the small gaps
remaining, then sand it level.  

I don't see what the difficulty is here.  The width of the piece will be
more or less the same from end to end, so you can mike that with your
caliper from the rest of the original piece, same for the length (although I
would cut it a tad overlong and then fit it.)   You can measure the angle of
the piece referencing it from the arm, and duplicate that cut on your table
saw.  With the depth cut to be just a bit too thick, then you can carefully
thin it on a stationary belt sander.  At that point you are pretty much
there, other than indexing it in place with pins before you glue it.  

Since you have given your reasons why you think it would be more work to
make a wood piece, then I will ask you why it would be less work to make the
piece using Abatron or Lakewood or another polyester putty?  What about that
process would make it the job less time consuming and of the same quality or
better?

Will Truitt  

-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of David Love
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2012 10:03 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Finish Repair Question - Should be Case Repair
Question

Actually, fitting a piece of wood would probably require the most work as I
see it.  The section is not quite precisely cut at present and would have to
be squared and leveled.  The wood would have to be cut to size very closely
as access to do leveling after is somewhat limited would be the slowest and
most difficult to sand level being made of wood.  The ends would still have
to be filled and blended afterwards and then you'd have three different
surface materials to match and blend.  

Ruth Phillips just sent me a sequence of photos that utilize her wood
rebuilder product which I'm tempted to use.  Thank you all for your input.

David Love
www.davidlovepianos.com


-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Encore Pianos
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2012 5:39 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Finish Repair Question - Should be Case Repair
Question

Thank you for making my point in the fewest words possible.  :-)

Will

-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Jon Page
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2012 6:48 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Finish Repair Question - Should be Case Repair
Question

You could have fitted a piece of wood in there and have been done with it
already.

--
Regards,

Jon Page