<html xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" = xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" = xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" = xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)"> <o:SmartTagType = namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="State"/> <o:SmartTagType = namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="City"/> <o:SmartTagType = namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"/>  <style>  </style> </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple> <div class=Section1> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> -----Original Message----- From: Brad Smith [mailto:staff@smithpiano.com] Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2005 12:17 PM To: Pianotech Subject: RE: Enlarging existing bridge pin holes <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Also, what are the consequences of using big fat #10 pins...or = using<o:p></o:p> slightly smaller #9 pins. Will it affect side bearing, or = relationships with<o:p></o:p> dampers?<o:p></o:p> Perhaps not enough to worry about.<o:p></o:p> *What about the = slight difference in the over all weight of the bridge.  Smaller pins = would reduce the mass of the soundboard/bridge structure that the wires must activate??  Just a random thought.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p></p= > John = Fortiner<o:p></o:p> <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City = w:st="on">Billings</st1:City>, <st1:State = w:st="on">MT.</st1:State></st1:place><o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> I'm not sure how critical the type of bit is, obviously it's = part of the<o:p></o:p> puzzle.<o:p></o:p> Most important is the lightweight shaft that allows you to drill = and follow,<o:p></o:p> without influencing, the angle of the original = holes.<o:p></o:p> For that reason, you would want to avoid completely filling the = holes with<o:p></o:p> epoxy.<o:p></o:p> And, making a bridge pattern from acetate or Mylar is vital, = should anything<o:p></o:p> go awry.<o:p></o:p> You might even wish to start a size lower than your final bit, = to<o:p></o:p> re-establish the holes, and then complete the sizing with the = final bit.<o:p></o:p> Maintaining control, and working "intentionally" are = most important.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Nick's class also covers a great way to fix bunged up notches; = or cracks<o:p></o:p> that have distorted the notch termination on an otherwise good = bridge.<o:p></o:p> This stuff, done right makes an old bridge look as though you've recapped<o:p></o:p> it!<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Best regards,<o:p></o:p> Brad Smith, RPT<o:p></o:p> www.smithpiano.com<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> -----Original Message-----<o:p></o:p> From: David Love = [mailto:davidlovepianos@comcast.net]<o:p></o:p> Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2005 11:41 = AM<o:p></o:p> To: 'Pianotech'<o:p></o:p> Subject: Enlarging existing bridge pin = holes<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> I am repining a bridge and because the bichords are a strange in between<o:p></o:p> size (about 9 1/2), I need to enlarge the holes to accommodate a = #10<o:p></o:p> pin.  I have not had much luck doing this in the past in a = clean way and<o:p></o:p> am wondering how others approach this.  My thought is to = reinforce the<o:p></o:p> bridge cap with a clear coat of epoxy first before drilling it = out,<o:p></o:p> reaming out any excess that might create large globs inside the = hole<o:p></o:p> before it sets up.  Any thoughts on this?  And what is = the best way to<o:p></o:p> approach redrilling an existing hole: high speed, low speed, by = hand?<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> David Love<o:p></o:p> davidlovepianos@comcast.net<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> _______________________________________________<o:p></o:p>= pianotech list info: = https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives<o:p></o:p></p= > <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> </div> </body> </html>