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<DIV><FONT size=2>Thanks Jon. But why not set the pins before =
gluing the
bar back in place avoiding the glue problems and the =
side-of-the-case-in-the-way
problem. Actually, the pins have not migrated on this bar so I =
will create
a mylar pattern for the pin position and index it to the tuning =
pins before
taking off the bearing bar. I think I will make it out of pin =
block
material though, a few people made that suggestion and it makes =
sense of
course. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>On another subject, are you installing =
soundboards? Are
you making your own or buying precrowned. If so, who are you =
getting them
from. I'm about to embark on soundboard replacement learning curve =
but
have no desire to start building them from scratch. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>David Love</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=jonpage2001@attbi.com =
href="mailto:jonpage2001@attbi.com">Jon
Page</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> February 23, 2002 3:47 =
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Bass bearing =
bar</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>At 06:16 PM 2/22/2002 -0800, you wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE cite="" type="cite"><FONT size=2>I have to remake a =
wooden bass
bearing bar for an old upright (tuning pin side). What is the =
correct
angle that the grain should run? Seems straight forward on =
appearance,
any comments?</FONT><BR> <BR> <BR><FONT size=2>David
Love</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>I made one from a scrap of pin block stock =
and
stained it dark.<BR><BR>Since the old one was split, there was no =
indexing the
pins from that one.<BR>All I could gather from it was length, width =
and
height.<BR><BR>With the bar removed, the old pin holes and torn wood =
can be
filled with epoxy.<BR>Scrape/sand this surface smooth to seat the new
cap.<BR><BR>Once the new piece was fashioned and before the bevels are =
cut,
place it in the piano,<BR>indexing it with bridge pins.<BR><BR>Here's =
the
tricky part:to locate the pins, replace the action and run a thread
from<BR>the bridge pin through the string cut in the hammer and mark =
it on the
bearing bar.<BR>After all the strings were marked, use a drafting =
divider to
even things off.<BR><BR>First, measure the distance between the first =
and last
single string pins and divide<BR>by the number of strings (or spaces - =
too
early to remember). Set the divider to that number<BR>and verify =
if it
is good, if not, readjust the span on the divider and recheck. Once =
you come
out<BR>even you can index the pins.<BR><BR>Do the same on the double =
strings
by measuring the distance between the left strings of the ends.<BR>Map =
out the
left string order, then average the distance for the right string and =
index
them off<BR>the divided left strings. Whew.<BR><BR>Remove the =
counter
bearing bar and drill the holes on a drill press but do not go all the =
way
through.<BR>When you epoxy it on, you don't want epoxy oozing up into =
the
holes. Bevel the cap now.<BR><BR>Install the bar indexing it with the =
bridge
pins. I used my sound board press to apply pressure.<BR>Once set, =
drill the
holes deeper for the pins. The lower singles should be a shallow angle =
unless
you<BR>have the side of the case off. Stain, a few coats of shellac, =
install
pins. Replace strings.<BR><BR>Hope this helps,<BR><BR><BR>
<DIV>Regards,</DIV><BR>
<DIV>Jon Page, piano technician</DIV>
<DIV>Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:jonpage@attbi.com"
=
EUDORA="AUTOURL">mailto:jonpage@attbi.com</A></DIV>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~=
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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