<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1170" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>David, and all, your method is quite a = bit like mine. Rather than buy a Jaras tool, you can do the same thing without = it. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>    What you're looking = for is the fact that when the balance rail contacts the keybed the keys will begin = to raise. I take a business card and cut it so that it's just a little = taller than the keybed-keytop distance. When you put it under the keytops, it will = form a slight curve. Then, I put the balance rail bedding tool on the glide = and, as you describe, push down on it. If it's not bedded you can see the card flex = quite dramatically. Then you can turn the glide bolt in, and as soon as the = glide bolt contacts, the card will start to straighten out. Work from the center = out, when you're done, you can do the "lift and tap" final check. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>    This get's you real = close, real fast. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>    Hey, a card's a lot = cheaper than any other tool I know. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Kevin.</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = black"><B>From:</B> <A title=davidlovepianos@earthlink.net href="mailto:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net">David Love</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A = title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, April 29, 2003 = 5:25 PM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: keyframe = bedding</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>On a Steinway the bedding = should be done with the cheek blocks screwed down.  That may solve your problem.  If the block bears down to much and restricts the use = of the una corda pedal you can shim the front of the cheek block with some = card stock.  You may notice that the front of the blocks are already = shimmed, many are.  A simple way to check the bedding is to press on the = glide screws with your wrench and you will see the keys dip slightly if the = glide is not bedded.  First raise all the glides so you get some movement = with each one.  Then, starting from the middle working out, wedge your = hand up underneath between the pinblock and the wrench which is resting = on top of the glide bolt , and by cupping your hand you can flex the = key bed downward.  You will see the keys dip slightly.  You can put = a Jaras leveler on the white keys if you have one which will make it easier to = see&nbs! p;movement.  When the movement stops go to the next one.  Go back through again to double check.  It's a = lot faster than sliding paper around and it works just fine.  You should be = able to bed the key frame in a few minutes.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2> <DIV>David Love</DIV> <DIV><A = href="mailto:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net">davidlovepianos@earthlink.n= et</A></DIV> <DIV> </DIV></FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = black"><B>From:</B> <A title=hullfam5@yahoo.com href="mailto:hullfam5@yahoo.com">Bob = Hull</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To: </B><A = title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A></DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 4/29/2003 4:34:51 PM = </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> keyframe = bedding</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=2> <DIV>Dear List,</DIV> <DIV>I'm working on a Steinway M regulation and on bedding the keyframe. (Not the same one I had a question on about a = month ago.) I thought I had accomplished this already- but the = knocking on the bass end has returned during the process of the other regulation = steps.  I'm wondering if when I regulated the balance rail = studs it came back. I used the sliding paper method and felt = good about the results.  So, as I found this knocking I returned to = the keybedding and I did some more sanding on the bottom of the front = rail but no progress seems to be coming about - the bass end still knocks = when you tap on it.  Both ends of the frame knock when tapped, but the = treble stops when you put the cheek block on, but the bass end still = knocks.  I measured the thickness of the front rail on both ends and the middle.  Bass end is .836; middle of front rail is .881 and = treble end is .850 or .860.  I know the keybed is crowne! ! d up in the = middle and the keyframe is reverse crowned.   Here's my = question:</DIV> <DIV>What would you think of painting a layer of epoxy on the bottom = of the bass end of the rail to thicken it rather than sanding/thinning the = whole rest of the rail until that knocking went away? (The knocking begins = about 1 octave from the bass end.)</DIV> <DIV>Also, with this crowned/reverse crown between keyframe and = keybed should the testing of the bedding be always done with cheek blocks = screwed in?</DIV> <DIV>One other question to drown you with - do you reflect the = crowned keybed in the key leveling?  I have heard yes and no on = this.</DIV> <DIV>Thanks.</DIV> <DIV>Bob Hull</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <P> <HR SIZE=1> Do you Yahoo!?<BR><A = href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/search/mailsig/*http://search.yahoo.com">T= he New Yahoo! Search</A> - Faster. Easier. Bingo.</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>