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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>And I agree that the first thing you =
should try to
do on ANY hammer that needs brightening is to file it first. Once you =
get below
the "fluff" you will find that it's as bright, if not brighter than you =
need.
The only hammers that I would consider adding chemicals to are Steinway =
hammers,
or else hammers where some block-head has killed them by
over-needling.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>By the way, when I sand hammers, I =
don't use a
paddle. I use thin strips which I have cut to be just wider than the =
hammers. It
works out easier that way. My last pass is with 800 grit, with the =
hammers
blocked up to the let-off position and leveled. You have to blow the =
hammers out
when you're done, but when do you not have to do that?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Kevin.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=DCrpt@comcast.net
href="mailto:DCrpt@comcast.net">DCrpt@comcast.net</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, September 23, =
2003 7:15
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Boston verts =
break-in?
(xpost)</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV> Boston =
Verticles tend to be less brighter than new Kawais.I agree <BR>with =
Richard
that a good hammer fileing will bring up the tone,also check =
<BR>regulation
especially lost motion.These hammers are the hard pressed kind,so =
<BR>shoulder
needleing can create some resilliancy and bring up the tone.Acetone =
<BR>and
keytops(used spareingly)on the crowns may be needed if they want a =
little
<BR>zing or attack
=
brightness. &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp;
Robin Olson <BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>