<html> <head> <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; = charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 10 (filtered)"> <style>  </style> </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple> <div class=Section1>   Jeannie:   This is a post I put on the list a year or two ago and outlines = what I use.  The only downside of the McWhorter Industries Product (which = I bought a gallon of and will probably last me a lifetime) is that it = thins with Xylene which a lot of people don't like to use.  I put a small amount in = an empty plastic film canister which I can seal with a cap if I don't use it = all.  It only takes a few drops of Xylene to thin it in that quantity to the = consistency of runny hot hide glue.  Set the canister in a tray of some type so = that if it tips over it doesn’t get all over the place.  The Trefz = PDF thins with Mineral Spirits, I think.  A high grade varnish would = probably work as well.    For those who followed the PDF = thread awhile back and are interested in just what it is and how you might get = it, the following information may be of use and is a supplement to the = information already provided by Joe Garrett.   Trefz Pin Driving Fluid is, = apparently, a phenolic resin without the addition of any of the typical dryers (solvents) added = by various manufacturers to create their own products.  In other = words, it is the raw material from which certain types of varnishes are made.  = Rodda paint in Oregon carries such a product known as 1067-S1.  If you live in Oregon or Washington you can buy the product from a = Rodda Paint dealer for about $15.00 per gallon.    Rodda Paint gets the product from = a company called McWhorter Technologies, Inc., in Carpentersville, IL 60110, 1-888-CALL-MWT.  It is known as H354B, = Product code 207 1196, Product Name Duramac 207-1196.   If you contact McWhorter, you = might find out which companies in your area purchase the raw material for = production and buy it before they add their own formula of solvents.  =   FYI  Schaff still sells Trefz = Pin Driving Fluid in 4oz bottles.  They do not list it in their = catalogue, but it is available upon request.   David Love   David Love davidlovepianos@comcast.net   -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On = Behalf Of Jeannie Grassi Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 7:15 PM To: 'Pianotech' Subject: RE: Smokin! was removing wrest pins from the piano   Hi David, What are you using for pin driving fluid?  I've used what = Joe Garrett suggests, but it's not available anymore.  Looking for new ideas.  Thanks, jeannie   Jeannie Grassi, RPT Assistant Editor, Piano Technicians Journal mailto:jcgrassi@earthlink.net   -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org = [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of David Love Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 3:20 PM To: tune4u@earthlink.net; 'Pianotech' Subject: RE: Smokin! was removing wrest pins from the = piano   My only concern with burning the holes is that I sometimes = wonder if that popping pin syndrome isn't in part due to burning the inside of = the hole when removing the pins.  That's why I've gotten back to = reaming with either a drill bit or a reamer to try and get to some fresh wood.  = Better to replace or replug the block, of course, but sometimes it's not = in the budget.  Reaming to a larger size and using the lo-torque = tuning pins with some pin driving fluid seems to keep the rendering under = control.  On most grands unless it's a real budget job, I always replace the = block.  On uprights, pinblock removal is a bit more of a hassle.  Any = nice suggestions for that btw?   David Love davidlovepianos@comcast.net   -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org = [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Alan Barnard Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 2:50 PM To: Pianotech Subject: Smokin! was removing wrest pins from the = piano   When I am restringing, it is generally an old piano with rusty = thunky strings and a sloppy sloppy block. Therefore, I am generally = replacing 2/0 pins with 4/0.   I use a 1/2 inch drive that has the impact drill feature which I = set to "on" which, in my warped little mind, seems to work = like jerk tuning to overcome resistance.    I don't spin it out fast enough to repeat the error of = Mrs. O'Leary's cow, but neither do I worry excessively about heat or even mild = scorching (or scroching, which I first typed and is a funnier = word).   My unscientific, possibly wacko, theory is that with the = upsizing of my order, slight overcooking isn't going to be a problem. In my experience, it has not.   I am in my foxhole: Fire away ...   Alan Barnard Salem, Missouri     > [Original Message] > From: Avery Todd = <avery1@houston.rr.com> > To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > Date: 09/05/2005 3:50:30 PM > Subject: Re:removing wrest pins from the piano - my = way! > > But I thought it was a slow removal like this that created = the heat that > we don't want????? > > Avery >     _______________________________________________= pianotech list info: = https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives     _______________________________________________= pianotech list info: = https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives     _______________________________________________= pianotech list info: = https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives </div> </body> </html>