<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" = xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" = xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" = xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" = xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; = charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=ProgId content=Word.Document> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 10"> <meta name=Originator content="Microsoft Word 10"> <link rel=File-List href="cid:filelist.xml@01C5165C.EDC266F0"> <o:SmartTagType = namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="State"/> <o:SmartTagType = namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="City"/> <o:SmartTagType = namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"/>  <style>  </style>  </head> <body bgcolor=white lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple = style='tab-interval:.5in'> <div class=Section1> Hi = Jack,<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> I use a siphon feed sand blaster. = You can pick one up for about $20 at farm supply stores or Harbor Freight type = tool sellers. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> For abrasive, I use 150 Garnet = mesh, a very fine garnet sand purchased from = Abrasive Products, (317) 485-7701, in <st1:place><st1:City>Fortville<= /font></st1:City>, <st1:State>Indiana</f= ont></st1:State></st1:place>. It ships in a pail of about 100 lbs and costs about 50 = dollars. It will last quite awhile. Judicious experimentation will allow you to = use it to clean most action parts making them look like new. It will even clean = hammer felt making them look better. It will also chew right through any = strings used to anchor springs in a heartbeat and blow up damper = felt.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Be sure to take the keys off the = key frame so you don’t pit the key pins with abrasive. Best to avoid the bushings unless you are planning on rebushing. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Experiment on old upright actions = in your graveyard. You’ll quickly get the hang of it.  Use compressed air to blow the = sand out when you are done. I’ve used this procedure for 15 years now with = great success. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Thump (Gordon Stelter) has another cleaning method that is intriguing. It involves soaking = things in some concoction. I haven’t been able to overcome my built in = resistance to soaking wood parts in fluid to try it. But the results are beautiful. = It should be in the archives within the last few months. = <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Blessings,<o:p></o:p><= /p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> Dean<o:p></o:p></fon= t> Dean May       &nbs= p;     cell 812.239.3359<o:p></o:p> PianoRebuilders.co= m   = 812.235.5272<o:p></o:p> Terre Haute = IN  = 47802<o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> -----Original = Message----- From: = pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Jack Houweling Sent: Saturday, February = 19, 2005 3:00 AM To: pianotech Subject: cleaning = keys <o:p> </o:p> <div> I am trying to clean the = wood on my keys. (The dirt on the top)  I have tried a brass brush on my = Dremel tool and my mouse sander with not bad results, but I would like it better. I = have seen photos of before and after with the keys looking new. Is there = any other techniques or  cleaning = solutions.   <o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Jack = Houweling   <o:p></o:p> </div> </div> </body> </html>