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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hello all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I'm reading all the ivory keytops stuff =
with great
interest, as an ivory job is awaiting me.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Could you explain what type of glues =
you're talking
about. By 'white glue' do you mean regular water soluble carpenter's =
glue? Past
experience tells me the ivories curl up upon contact with the stuff. I =
gather,
therefore, that it's something else. The, what is CA glue? Is this a =
type of
contact cement, the stuff druggies sniff in the city park at night?
:-)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Jean-Jacques Granas</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>---- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=antares@euronet.nl =
href="mailto:antares@euronet.nl">antares</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, January 03, =
2004 10:59
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Ivory =
keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><BR>On 3-jan-04, at 3:12, Richard Strang wrote:<BR><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE>Hello, list,<BR>Once again, I learned a big lesson the =
very hard
way, so I thought I'd<BR>share my grief with you all.<BR>I worked on =
an old
player upright last night. It was a 1907 variety, but<BR>someone in
California had rebuilt it very well. Why? Who knows? But it =
was<BR>in very
good shape, and close to pitch.<BR>All the ivory keytops, the =
squares, were
coming off. about 15 had been<BR>off for quite some time, but the =
customer
had saved them and gave them to me<BR>to glue back on. I also gave a =
tug at
all the rest that had not come off yet<BR>and found that most of =
them were
loose. I got out my trusty PVC-E glue and<BR>proceeded to glue them =
all back
on.<BR>My big mistake? The glue paints on very white and pretty, and =
I took
it<BR>for granted that it would dry that way and would hide the =
finger
prints and<BR>other imperfections that were on the top of the keys =
that had
not had a<BR>keytop on for a while. When I started taking the rubber =
bands
off and<BR>reinstalling the keys, I got a big surprise. PVC-E glue =
dries
perfectly<BR>clear, leaving all imperfections glaring through the =
keytop
which were all<BR>very well glued on now. The job looks terrible, =
even
though there are now<BR>keytops installed which I'm sure feel very =
much
better than the key did<BR>without the ivory. Even so, it is very =
obvious
which keys had been bare for<BR>a while. Should have I used another =
white
glue, such as Titebond? I have<BR>always stayed away from the =
regular white
glues for keytops. Anyway, a word<BR>to the wise. Don't do what I =
did. If
you are going to use PVC-E glue for<BR>ivory keytops, make sure the =
keytop
surface is WHITE before gluing.
Lesson<BR>learned.<BR><BR>Richard<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Hello =
Richard, I am
not an ivory specialist but I have found a neat way of fixing this
problem.<BR>Thanks to Susan Kline I make use of two different =
glues.<BR>One is
the white glue for wood and the other is the CA glue, the one that =
glues very
fast and for ever.<BR>So what I do is this :<BR>First I clean the wood =
on
which the ivory top had been glued with my sharp little pen knife, =
because
indeed the stains of dirty fingers will shine through. <BR>I also make =
sure
that the ends where the ivory heads and tails connect are white again, =
although I am very careful not to scrape away ivory and thereby damage =
the
connection.<BR>I also carefully remove old glue from the ivory itself, =
again
with my little knife. I do not sand because that is too rough and
uncontrolled.<BR>When I am sure that the surfaces are reasonably =
clean, I take
from my tool bag a small container with white glue and the CA glue. To =
spread
the glue I use a very thin wooden sateh stick of which I always have a =
few in
storage because I also use them for applying glue on shanks =
etc.<BR>With the
sateh stick I very carefully apply a thin film of white glue on the =
wooden
surface of the key and also 'wet' the ivory connection between head =
and
tail.<BR>With the CA glue holder I apply thin drops on the ivory and =
try to
spread that out evenly too, also on the connecting side but very very
thin.<BR>Now I put the two together very precisely and press firmly =
for a
minute or so.<BR>That is enough, because the two glues have chemically =
bonded
and the ivory will probably never come off again and will look white =
and clean
as before.<BR>If the ivories have curled over time due to humidity =
changes, it
is another story because then you need key top clamps so the repair I
described above is an 'on the road repair'.<BR>Again =
<?bigger><?bigger><?bigger>thanks to Susan =
Kline<?/bigger><?/bigger><?/bigger>
who invented the bondage of CA glue and white glue.<BR><BR>friendly
greetings<BR>from<BR>André Oorebeek<BR><BR>
<P></P><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>
<HR>
<P></P>
<P>
<CENTER><IMG
src="CID:{560B0B7B-B5FD-41FA-9579-FC3A9F2343E6}/foto krtje =
2_2.jpg"></CENTER>
<P></P><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>
<HR>
<P></P><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT><BR><BR>Amsterdam - The
=
Netherlands<BR>0031-20-6237357<BR>0645-492389<BR>www.concertpianoservice.=
nl<BR><BR><BR>
<P>
<HR>
<P></P>_______________________________________________<BR>pianotech =
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