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<DIV><FONT size=3> Bill Spurlock has a metho=
d for doing this as well & it's fairly low tech. I've done this a few ti=
mes with his method but it's a bit slow The secret is a flat piece of steel =
with a hole fore the balance rail pin drilled in it.This slips over the pin =
on the keyframe in place of the balance punching & then the key is place=
d on top of it. The key front is lined up to a straight edge running ac=
ross the fronts of the keys & then it is pushed down on the steel plate =
jig that has the tip of a center pin just protruding above the surface of th=
e jig on each end. This puts the reference marks about 1/2" on either s=
ide of the balance hole. Remove the key ,cut out a the offending area,glue i=
n a new piece off bass wood or whatever then hold the key in a cross vice, l=
ay the jig back in the reference marks & drill the new hole thru t=
he locator hole in the jig. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Dale</FONT></DIV>
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2px solid">
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi David,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>>That sounds like an ingenious way to do one key,=
but unfortunately there are 88 which have the same problem...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><shrug></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I was mostly suggesting a solution for Terr=
y's job, in which there are about a half dozen difficult keys. I happe=
n to own the keys in question! ;-)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Here's an idea that is totally untried and =
untested, but definitely cheap:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>How about black fiber washers? Some n=
ut and bolt supplier may be able to supply these things pretty cheaply. =
; They seem pretty tough, more so than hardwood (?), and I imagine they're q=
uite durable. I don't know the material, but they should be gluable --=
possibly with Titebond, and most certainly with epoxy. Perhaps one co=
uld get a bag of, oh, a couple hundred of them for a buck or two, and r=
eam the center hole to the needed size with a sharp bit.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>How to cut the recess in the keystick? =
; Use a pilot-point drill bit, chucked in a drill press. Pilot-po=
int bits, made by DeWalt, I believe, cut flat-bottomed holes -- with a =
demple in the middle (the pilot point). Clamp the key firmly, and make=
all the necessary adjustments to limit travel to the desired depth. T=
he key can be positioned in the clamp with a removable balance rail pin, whi=
ch would extend from the clamp, through the keystick. Once in position=
, clamp, and then remove the pin. Drill, glue your un-reamed fiber was=
her, and move on. After the glue is dried/cured, ream the entire set t=
o the correct size.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV></BLOCKQUOT=
E></DIV>
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