<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML style="FONT-SIZE: x-small; FONT-FAMILY: MS Sans Serif"><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2627" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Alan,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>On most pianos, yes, it would be easier to just = replace the pinblock. But in cases where, as Ed stated "(the) block comprises the upper portion of the sounding assembly and there was = no way to remove it without completely destroying the piano and starting = from scratch" or in the situation like what I photographed, when the pinblock = is mortised into the case around more than half its perimeter (you would = have to come close to building a new exterior case for the square grand to = remove and replace the pinblock), then plugging rapidly becomes an efficient approach.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT><BR></DIV> <DIV> <DIV>Question (based on zero experience in this procedure): When you = have do all that, wouldn't it be easier, faster, and cheaper just to = start with a new piece of lumber?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> <DIV>Alan Barnard</DIV> <DIV>Salem, Missouri</DIV> <DIV> </DIV></DIV></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid"> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Pinblock. I assume the plate is out = of the piano (how else did you remove the soundboard?). Plug the block with = plugs cut from pinblock material of your choice. Webb Phillips sells = Delignit and maple multi-lam 1/2-inch and 3/8-inch plugs. Some people drill the = same size hole, use Tightbond and pound them in. I drill an oversize hole and = epoxy them in place with West System. Make heap strong pinblock. Pinblock = look like crap, but get real solid - just like new (or in this case, = likely better). If you want the full story of all my trials and = tribulations on using epoxy in such a case, just holler. Picture of epoxied-in = pinblock plugs (square grand).</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>SNIP</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>> The block is the last = real task to deal with. The block comprises <BR>> the upper portion of the = sounding assembly and there was no way to remove it <BR>> without = completely destroying the piano and starting from scratch. = <BR>>    The piano was strung with atypical tuning pins, (at least, in my = <BR>> experience).  They are .250" diameter and only 2 inches = long.  These are smaller than <BR>> any piano pins I know of, and larger = than the zither/harpsichord pins.  The <BR>> dainty little plate = doesn't encourage me to drill the holes out to accomodate <BR>> the 1/0 = pins, and they are all too long,anyhow.   I can only imagine = re-using <BR>> the originals.  There was marginal torque on quite a = few of them prior to <BR>> disassembly, so I want to treat the block = before driving them back.  <BR>>    I have, against = all my "traditional" training, become! a fan of CA glue in <BR>> the = treatment of loose pins, but I wonder if I can't do something a little = <BR>> more extreme with this block.  I know that some of you have used the = West System <BR>> epoxy in block repair, and would like to know what = your technique is.  The <BR>> block is a solid beech beam with = two very thin laminations on top.  Any ideas?  <BR>> Thanks, = <BR>> <BR>> Ed Foote RPT </FONT></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>