<HTML><HEAD> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2715.400" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY> <DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>On a Steinway the bedding should be done with the cheek blocks screwed down.  That may solve your problem.  If the block bears down to much and restricts the use of the una corda pedal you can shim the front of the cheek block with some card stock.  You may notice that the front of the blocks are already shimmed, many are.  A simple way to check the bedding is to press on the glide screws with your wrench and you will see the keys dip slightly if the glide is not bedded.  First raise all the glides so you get some movement with each one.  Then, starting from the middle working out, wedge your hand up underneath between the pinblock and the wrench which is resting on top of the glide bolt , and by cupping your hand you can flex the key bed downward.  You will see the keys dip slightly.  You can put a Jaras leveler on the white keys if you have one which will make it easier to see movement.  When the movement stops go to the next one.  Go back through again to double check.  It's a lot faster than sliding paper around and it works just fine.  You should be able to bed the key frame in a few minutes.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2> <DIV>David Love</DIV> <DIV><A href="mailto:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net">davidlovepianos@earthlink.net</A></DIV> <DIV> </DIV></FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=hullfam5@yahoo.com href="mailto:hullfam5@yahoo.com">Bob Hull</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To: </B><A title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A></DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 4/29/2003 4:34:51 PM </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> keyframe bedding</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=2> <DIV>Dear List,</DIV> <DIV>I'm working on a Steinway M regulation and on bedding the keyframe. (Not the same one I had a question on about a month ago.) I thought I had accomplished this already- but the knocking on the bass end has returned during the process of the other regulation steps.  I'm wondering if when I regulated the balance rail studs it came back. I used the sliding paper method and felt good about the results.  So, as I found this knocking I returned to the keybedding and I did some more sanding on the bottom of the front rail but no progress seems to be coming about - the bass end still knocks when you tap on it.  Both ends of the frame knock when tapped, but the treble stops when you put the cheek block on, but the bass end still knocks.  I measured the thickness of the front rail on both ends and the middle.  Bass end is .836; middle of front rail is .881 and treble end is .850 or .860.  I know the keybed is crowne! d up in the middle and the keyframe is reverse crowned.   Here's my question:</DIV> <DIV>What would you think of painting a layer of epoxy on the bottom of the bass end of the rail to thicken it rather than sanding/thinning the whole rest of the rail until that knocking went away? (The knocking begins about 1 octave from the bass end.)</DIV> <DIV>Also, with this crowned/reverse crown between keyframe and keybed should the testing of the bedding be always done with cheek blocks screwed in?</DIV> <DIV>One other question to drown you with - do you reflect the crowned keybed in the key leveling?  I have heard yes and no on this.</DIV> <DIV>Thanks.</DIV> <DIV>Bob Hull</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <P> <HR SIZE=1> Do you Yahoo!?<BR><A href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/search/mailsig/*http://search.yahoo.com">The New Yahoo! Search</A> - Faster. Easier. Bingo.</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>