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Hi Dave,<br>
I agree completely. Sequence is every thing in quality damper work.
Changing lift tray felt, and key end felt, can save a lot of time and
hassles in the long run, on a well worn action.<br>
The Spurlock jig makes timing a snap. As a tip, Iron new felt with a warm
clothes iron before installation, you will be amazed how few keys you
will have to shim.<br><br>
just my 2c worth<br>
Roger<br><br>
<br>
At 06:19 PM 6/8/02 -0700, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font size=2>The only problem with
this method is that it sets the timing for the pedal sometimes at the
expense of the keys and the sostenuto. You should really set all
the damper levers on the same plane first using the height of the key end
felt as a guide to insure proper timing from the keys (this is also
needed for even sostenuto action). Then you should make any
adjustments necessary with the timing of the key end felt. If there
is unevenness in the level of the key end felt, then you need to either
build up or trim down as needed testing each key. Once that is
accomplished, you can then set the lift from the pedal either shimming
the tray felt or using adjustable capstans if the piano is equipped with
them. </font><br>
<br>
<font size=2>David Love</font>
<dl>
<dd>----- Original Message -----
<dd>From:</b> <a href="mailto:ramsey@extremezone.com">Kevin E. Ramsey</a>
<dd>To:</b> <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a>
<dd>Sent:</b> June 08, 2002 5:49 PM
<dd>Subject:</b> Re: Adjusting dampers to tray<br><br>
<font face="arial" size=2>
<dd> Matt, what I do is perhaps the easiest, and
usually gets me perfect results. ( I like what Roger had to say about
installing new tray felt) </font><font face="arial" size=2>
<dd> What I do when I want to re-set damper timing,
like when the dampers are almost down on the key ends, and lifting
immediately, is to go under the piano and adjust the pedal rod nut up a
bit. Then I come back up, put my finger on the top of a damper (lightly)
and depress the key. The damper will stop the hammer rise where it
contacts the back of the key. This is how I check the timing. I just
raise the pedal rod nut until the damper timing is at one third to one
half blow distance. Then I pull the action, loosen all the damper screws,
lift the underlevers, making sure they're free. Then you can tap the
dampers lightly down into position, re-tighten the screws, and
re-regulate the pedal nut. After correcting the ones that inevitably
twist upon tightening the screws, you're basically done. You'll
inevitably run into some that are a little tight on the wire, but not bad
enough to run a drill bit down into. just lift the underlever up on the
wire, and after the dampers are down in position, tap the underlever down
on the tray lightly. </font><font face="arial" size=2>
<dd> All you're really doing is setting the timing to
the same thing that will be lifting the dampers; the tray.
</font><font face="arial" size=2>
<dd> The only problem with this in a Steinway is that
often the tray is not level. It will end up with a damper timing that's
earlier in the bass and later in the treble, which is the opposite from
what I'd really like. I just did this the other day, and after about a
half hour's work, they all lifted perfectly with the pedal. It's a really
good technique. Richard Davenport taught me this. I've probably
corrupted his technique, so if anyone has a problem with how I described
it, blame me, not Richard. </font>
<dd>
<dd>
<dd>
<dd>
<dd>Kevin E. Ramsey
<dd><a href="mailto:ramsey@extremezone.com">ramsey@extremezone.com</a>
<dd>----- Original Message -----
<dd>From:</b> <a href="mailto:ptuner@optonline.net">Matt Wynne</a>
<dd>To:</b> <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a>
<dd>Sent:</b> Friday, June 07, 2002 3:04 PM
<dd>Subject:</b> Adjusting dampers to tray<br><br>
<dd>Greeting esteemed colleagues:<br><br>
<dd>I will be reassembling a damper system in an old S&S grand.
It is one of
<dd>those systems that was born without regulating screws on each
underlever
<dd>for adjustment to the lift tray. Is there any efficient way to
adjust them
<dd>so that they all lift in unison with the pedal? I'm aware of
the old
<dd>method using center rail punchings, or something similar, as shims,
but
<dd>there must be a better way. Any advice would be
appreciated.<br><br>
<dd>Thanks,<br><br>
<dd>-Matt Wynne</blockquote>
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</dl>Roger</html>