<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=US-ASCII"> <TITLE>Message</TITLE> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><SPAN class=859413016-05022006></SPAN><FONT face=Arial><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT size=2>H<SPAN class=859413016-05022006> i Terry,</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT size=2><SPAN class=859413016-05022006></SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT size=2><SPAN class=859413016-05022006>I have to jump in on this one. I think that this setup is due to fail. It seems to me that it won't take long for the rods to dimple in the flange and the rail. Eventually, I can see the flanges moving forward on the rail after a few years tightening of the flange screws.</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT size=2><SPAN class=859413016-05022006></SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT size=2><SPAN class=859413016-05022006>Have you thought about gluing a piece of maple on the rail to fit the flange, or, glue a strip in the aligned set of flanges and then recutting and redrill. I think this would have given you a lot bigger contact surface than just the 2 steel dowels. A piece of sandpaper glued to the rail would have then prevented the moving around (same as in older grands' hammer rails).</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT size=2><SPAN class=859413016-05022006></SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT size=2><SPAN class=859413016-05022006>Just as usual my humble opinion.</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT size=2><SPAN class=859413016-05022006></SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT size=2><SPAN class=859413016-05022006>Marcel Carey,</SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT size=2><SPAN class=859413016-05022006>Sherbrooke, QC </SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT><BR></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>I checked out the action center position pretty closely before making this conversion. I just double-checked it with the original setup again (not that I had ANY doubts!  ;-). It is real close to original - if anything a quarter of a millimeter low, so I really don't want to lower it any more.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT size=3>However, I did incorporate some of Ron's suggestion (although not the heart of his suggestion) - I ran a length of #17-</FONT>1/2<FONT size=3> music wire along the bottom side of the flange screw (nice snug fit) and kept the upper brass rod.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>I have to admit that I still like the idea of having the full height of the flange intimately contacting the action rail. If nothing else, it will likely make me sleep better at night....</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>BTW: What kind of flange does is completely flat on the back side - no cut-out?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:859413016@05022006-29C1" align=baseline border=0></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:859413016@05022006-29C8" align=baseline border=0></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>----- Original Message ----- </FONT> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>> As I'm watching this thread, I wonder: have you checked the geometry of the flange and butt with the wippen and key in place??<BR>> Is it possible that the action center is a little high, and that you could just run the rail through a table saw and cut the bottom of the flange rabbet a little lower?<BR>> <BR>> Ed Sutton<BR>>>><BR>>>><BR>>>> I think I'd have considered this. Seems easier, and might not even <BR>>>> need the maple addition - "just" a different set of flanges. Lots of <BR>>>> ways to get there, it seems.<BR>>>><BR>>>> Ron N</FONT></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>