<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY id=role_body style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial" bottomMargin=7 bgColor=#ffffff leftMargin=7 topMargin=7 = rightMargin=7> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- </DIV> <DIV>Greetings to the list,</DIV> <DIV>     I'm afraid I have woefully = underestimated the time required to replace a set of hammer spring loops (or = cords).  On a Yamaha circa 1972 upright.  Schwander type action.  After = bringing the action to my workshop it took me 10 minutes to replace one string loop.  Evidently this is a 2 day job and I figured about 3 = hours.</DIV> <DIV>     Is there a short cut?  Would I be = better off to just order a new set of hammer flgs. and repin the whole darn thing?  I am probably making it harder than it really is.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Charles Cron</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>    Charles,</DIV> <DIV>    This is a much discussed topic on the = list.From the ptg home page there is a link to the pianotech archives . The = search option will direct you to postings on most any topic</DIV> <DIV>    Best wishes,</DIV> <DIV>        Tom Driscoll RPT</DIV> <DIV>        </DIV> <DIV>    >From the archives with = editing: I've done many of these jobs and have posted a method for > Replacement of the cords in the past. With input from a tech in Japan, > (Sorry, but his name escapes me now) I = refined my approach so at the > risk of some redundancy here = goes. First, we are assuming that the > pinning is solid, = the flanges are well traveled, and the hammers = are not > worn past reshaping. These pianos are usually less than 20 years old and > If not in a school situation, I've = found them to meet these criteria. > With the action in = the piano I space hammers tightening the hammer flange screws.       Now with the action on the = bench and in the cradle,I  tighten all remaining screws, reshape hammers > and blow out all debris.       Remove the hammer = rest rail--easily done in > this action by unscrewing the = hangers from the rail. Next Loosen the > butt plate screws and = hang the whole butt-hammer assembly from the > bridle straps = without disconnecting them from the bridle wire. = (That was > the tip from our Japanese friend) Now the flanges are exposed for > removing and replacing the cords. I put a small = amount of acetone on > the slots and then immediately clean = out the old cord and slot with > the chisel point of a small = spade drill bit. ( By hand -not chucked in > the = drill!)  You may have to reapply the solvent as you go. Finish the > slot cleanout with a small brass suede = brush, and compressed air or = vac.       (I found that the action centers are unchanged by any acetone = that migrates to the bushing) >     Now for the cords. = If this is not a gray market piano you can get the > cord = from Yamaha wrapped around a small cardboard tube. If not = > available wrap some silk cord ( avail. From Schaff) around an old #88 > key top and slice down the middle. Either way = works, but the idea is to get 88 > cords cut to exact = length. Now glue one side in the slot -I use > titebond- a small = amount -and press the cord in the slot with a small > screw = driver lining up the end of the cord with the line in the flange. > By the time you get all 88 done = the glue will be set. Go back and glue > the other side. = Reinstall the hammer-butt assemblies, put the = springs in > the cords, reinstall the rest rail and your done. Two hours max and > less with practice. >     The advantage = over replacing the flanges is not only time, but > it is = difficult to travel the new flanges with the dampers in the = way. > hammer spacing will not change, the old flanges are = already > Dimensionally stable @ the screw and will not need retightening as > soon. = >     If this is a worn action with loose pinning then = flange > replacement is the best way. Also if this is an action without butt > plates and the flange is pinned to the butt in = my opinion it's less > clear which method is best. I've = done about quite a few of these and > almost all have the = butt plate style.  >     ` Tom Driscoll > = >         =             &= nbsp; </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>