<HTML>Thanks Tom.  Should be good experienc= e in this!  The great thing about pianos is that by the time you've don= e something 88 times, you've pretty well got it down! Dave Stahl In a message dated 6/4/04 4:59:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time, tomtuner@com= cast.net writes: <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARG= IN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">hammer butt problem Terry, Tom Cole(and others) say they can replace the cords in 2 or 2 1/2 hours.=  Tom gave at a technical at a chapter meeting last year where he gave = a slide show and step-by-step instructions. I've never done it before, but I have a cord replacement job pending. &n= bsp;I'm figuring on 4 hours as a first timer, counting learning curve. &nbsp= ;Fortunately, the piano belongs to a store I contract for, so it's an ideal = guinea pig situation. If the pinning is still good, most people seem to think it's faster to d= o the cords than to replace the flanges.    Dave Stahl Dave, My post from the archives :           &nbs= p;  From the archives with editing: I've done many of these jobs and have posted a method for<FONT= COLOR="#000000" BACK="#ffffff" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZ= E=3 PTSIZE=12 FAMILY="FIXED" FACE="Courier New" LANG="0"> > Replacement of the cords in the past. With input from a tech in = Japan, > (Sorry, but his name escapes me now) I refined my approach so at= the > risk of some redundancy here goes. First, we are assuming that t= he > pinning is solid, the flanges are well traveled, and the hammers= are not > worn past reshaping. These pianos are usually less than 20 years= old and > If not in a school situation, I've found them to meet these crit= eria. > With the action in the piano I space hammers tightening the hamm= er flange screws.      Now with the action on the bench and i= n the cradle,I  tighten all remaining screws, reshape hammers<FO= NT COLOR="#000000" BACK="#ffffff" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" S= IZE=3 PTSIZE=12 FAMILY="FIXED" FACE="Courier New" LANG="0"> > and blow out all debris.      Remove the hammer rest rail--easily do= ne in > this action by unscrewing the hangers from the rail. Next Loosen= the > butt plate screws and hang the whole butt-hammer assembly from t= he > bridle straps without disconnecting them from the bridle wire. (= That was > the tip from our Japanese friend) Now the flanges are exposed fo= r > removing and replacing the cords. I put a small amount of aceton= e on > the slots and then immediately clean out the old cord and slot w= ith > the chisel point of a small spade drill bit. ( By hand -not chuc= ked in > the drill!)  You may have to reapply the solvent as you go.= Finish the > slot cleanout with a small brass suede brush, and compressed air or vac.      (I found that the action centers are u= nchanged by any acetone that migrates to the bushing) >     Now for the cords. If this is not a gray= market piano you can get the > cord from Yamaha wrapped around a small cardboard tube. If not <= /FONT> > available wrap some silk cord ( avail. From Schaff) around an ol= d #88 > key top and slice down the middle. Either way works, but the ide= a is to get 88 > cords cut to exact length. Now glue one side in the slot -I use<= /FONT> > titebond- a small amount -and press the cord in the slot with a = small > screw driver lining up the end of the cord with the line in the<= /FONT> flange. > By the time you get all 88 done the glue will be set. Go back an= d glue > the other side. Reinstall the hammer-butt assemblies, put the sp= rings in > the cords, reinstall the rest rail and your done. Two hours max = and > less with practice. >     The advantage over replacing the flanges= is not only time, but > it is difficult to travel the new flanges with the dampers in th= e way. > hammer spacing will not change, the old flanges are already</FON= T> > Dimensionally stable @ the screw and will not need retightening = as > soon. >     If this is a worn action with loose pinn= ing then flange > replacement is the best way. Also if this is an action without b= utt > plates and the flange is pinned to the butt in my opinion it's l= ess > clear which method is best. I've done about quite a few of these= and > almost all have the butt plate style.   >     ` Tom Driscoll > >           &nbs= p;           <= FONT COLOR="#000000" BACK="#ffffff" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff"= SIZE=3 PTSIZE=12 FAMILY="FIXED" FACE="Courier New" LANG="0"> </BLOCKQUOTE> </HTML>