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At 05:15 PM 10/12/2002 -0500, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite cite><font face="arial" size=2>Pinblock needs
replacing (Chickering "Quarter Grand," age unknown, about 5'
baby grand).</font> <br>
<font face="arial" size=2>Looks like the bass and treble/tenor have
separate blocks at slightly different heights. Also looks like the blocks
are not set into the rim, just screwed to the frame from underneath.
</font> <font face="arial" size=2>Anyone seen or replaced one
of these? </font><font face="arial">
</font><font face="arial" size=2>Can it be replaced without removing the
harp?</font><font face="arial"><br>
</font><font face="arial" size=2>Special issues or concerns?</font>
<font face="arial" size=2>I have no, i.e., zip, zilch, zero, experience
replacing pinblocks. Alan R. Barnard</font><font face="arial">,
</font><font face="arial" size=2>Salem, MO</font></blockquote><br>
Replacing this sectional block would be rather difficult (heroic/crazy)
given your experience thus far. Even for the experienced, it is not a
welcomed task.<br>
<br>
However, there is a possibility that you may be able to bring this block
back into service depending on the severity of delamination and the size
of the pins<br>
(or number of over-sized pins installed), you can epoxy it back to
life.<br>
<br>
This past Summer I restrung an 1884 Chickering grand. The block was
in three sections, stepped front and rear and fit on both sides,<br>
oh yeah, with angled tops in the bass and tenor. This was not a
project I welcomed at that point. I rose to the challenge
with<br>
Eopxy Technology 301 Epoxy (water thin).<br>
<br>
Since 2/0 pins were removed and were not loose, my choice for this
treatment was easy. After the initial shock of viewing this <br>
over-engineered marvel I noticed slight delamination. So my
'path-of-least-resistance' approach was to repair and install 3/0
pins.<br>
<br>
The 301 was liberally applied to all pin holes, then brushed around until
well permeated. To fill the gaps, I mixed in West System<br>
Colloidal Silica Adhesive Filler and recoated the blocks and let that
soak in. I stacked the three blocks together with waxed paper<br>
in between and clamped the lot between pin block material supported with
wooden beams. This sat for many days.<br>
<br>
After pulling this apart, everything was tight and I let them cure in the
open air for another week or two.<br>
<br>
I used Ron N's two bit approach to drilling blocks and reamed the holes
twice on the drill press.<br>
<br>
I used 3/0, Low-torque tuning pins; they have a great feel in the
block.<br>
<br>
SO, chances are that your Chickering will not have the ends of the block
sitting upon ledges on the rim and it is feasible<br>
to drop the blocks out after de-stringing. (You haven't lived until you
try to locate those machine screw holes blindly under a new block).<br>
<br>
Whether or not the plate needs to be removed to repair the sound board or
compensate down bearing is another question.<br>
I would recommend that you also treat the bridge pins with the epoxy to
firm them up.<br>
<br>
Don't rush,<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>Regards,</div>
<br>
<div>Jon Page, piano technician</div>
<div>Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.</div>
<div><a href="mailto:jonpage@attbi.com" EUDORA=AUTOURL>mailto:jonpage@attbi.com</a></div>
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