<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2668" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Or replace the whole mess with the = Renner replacement back-action which is made just for situations like this.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">Depending on the condition of the flanges, you might consider drilling and then = screwing them in place prior to removal for servicing.<BR><BR>Best.<BR><BR>Horace<BR><BR>At 07:35 AM 7/30/2005, = you wrote:<BR> <BLOCKQUOTE class=cite cite="" type="cite"><FONT face=arial = size=2>OK. So I've got my S&S 'A' in bitz - and am preparing to restring it. I = have just taken out the dampers and damper lift tray. I was expecting = this... but hoping it wouldn't be so... the damper lever flanges are all glued = in place on the "x" (any idea what this rail is called? as part of the tray?) = So we're back at the thorny question of lubricating in situ, or = ungluing and dismantling these flanges and re-centring them. Given that S&S = are in favour of Protek CLP are there any ideas out there... pro/con? = Please debate!<BR>Regards from a bright and windy Saturday afternoon in Sussex-by-the-Sea<BR>Michael G.(UK)</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>