<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)"> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="country-region"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="State"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="City"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"/>  <style>  </style> </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple> <div class=Section1> Hi,Dave! Here is the reason for this tool:old,absolete shanks for Brambach’s,Kranich [Cronic] & Bachs,older Everetts,when traveling technician with no-parts back-up can do this splicing job in the field and it doesn’t matter if this is a brocken shank for a vertical or a grand.<o:p></o:p> Of course,replacing new parts is easier and faster and it’s not a shop tool.<o:p></o:p> Regarding your post about tools:I went through severall “Pregant” tool cases and learned to divide them into BS[Basic stuff] kit,BS-2[Big stuff kit],BS-3[Bulky stuff kit],etc.String stuff-separate box,Hammer shanks replacement for both verticals and grands-separate box,etc.You had a chance to see my van and we had a discussion on that.It’s definitely,not a minimalistic approach.<o:p></o:p> Hope it helps. Isaac<o:p></o:p> <div> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center tabindex=-1> </div> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of David Ilvedson Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 10:54 AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: RE: Mystery tool? - not...<o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> Which asks the question:  If you've got to drill out either the butt or the hammer head...why not just do them both and put in a new shank... David Ilvedson, RPT <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Pacifica</st1:City>, <st1:State w:st="on">California</st1:State></st1:place> <o:p></o:p> <div style='border:none;border-left:solid black 2.25pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt'> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center> </div> Original message From: "Israel Stein" <CUSTOS3@COMCAST.NET>To: pianotech@ptg.org Received: 3/5/2006 10:33:47 AM Subject: Mystery tool? - not...<o:p></o:p> At 09:41 AM 3/5/2006, pianotech-request@ptg.org wrote:<o:p></o:p> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt' cite="" type=cite> Puzzler?   Hello list,   I found this tool in a box of tools given to me.  I'd like to know what it is.  A hammer shank fits all the way through each of the holes longitudinally, and the screws are perpendicular to those holes, as if the screws are meant to hold the hammer shanks in place.  (to what purpose?)  And why is there a diagonal slot sawn into the side, intersecting each of the "shaft tunnels"?   Is this a useful tool?   Thanks, John Dorr<o:p></o:p> </blockquote> John, That's a hammershank repair jig. Sort of a mini miter box to make a "prosthetic" for a broken hammer shank from a new hammershank. You put your broken shank through the hole, tighten it down with the screw and saw it off through the diagonal slot  with a thin saw of some sort. You then do the same thing with a new shank - and you have a piece of shank with the same angle on one end as the one you created on the broken shank. Fit them together, glue, wind lots of thread around the joint while the glue dries, trim to size and rehang the hammer. Useful field repair when you have enough of the broken shank left to work with and shank replacement - for some reason - is not an option. The two different size holes are for different diameter shanks. The tighter the shank fits in the hole - the more precise angle of a cut you will end up with... You might want to make sure that the joint and the woodgrain of the "prosthetic" are both at a right angle to the direction of the hammer blow - to minimize stress on the joint and the shank... <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Israel</st1:place></st1:country-region> Stein <o:p></o:p> </div> </div> </body> </html>