<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Here goes.  First, these are general comments and there *will* be exceptions.  This is about upright, foot pump players only.  No reproducers, grands, coin-op, or expression pianos.  And..big disclaimer...I'll probably forget something so feel free to jump in, really, anyone.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If the player works, seriously consider teaming up in some manner with an experienced player tech.  The worst thing you can do is have it not work when you're finished.  I can guarantee you will not have an adequate selection of hoses and tubes, etc. if any should break.  If you still wish to venture on your own...label and diagram everything you take apart.  You may think it will be obvious upon reassembly, but many, many times it won't.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If the player doesn't work (or you've decided to venture as above) make sure the condition is agreed upon and documented, as someone posted previously.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Remove all "upper" case parts (front, shelf, fallboard, and cheek blocks).  Locate the screws (or other mechanical attachment) for the stack.  Usually these are two (or more)screws running vertically through the stack shelf at either end.  Or as in the case of a Standard Pneumatic Action, four large oval head screws running horizontally at the bass end and one or two running vertically at the treble end.  Remove these screws.  Remove the screw in to the plate from the spoolbox brace.  Disconnect any tubes or hoses that connect the top unit to the bottom unit.  Typically these will be one or two at the bass end (tracking supply and sustain trip), hose to wind motor at treble end, and very likely on many, but not all, the main supply hose from the pump (yes, delve into the bottom bass end).  Now you have mechanical linkage to disconnect.  Carefully look to find the play reroll linkage and the tempo linkage.  Move the keyslip levers back and forth while looking near and around the wind motor and transmission.  Disconnect these where there is no "adjustment" possible.  Find a clip attachment or leather nut to undo.  If you disconnect at an "adjustment" (sliding) connection you are giving yourself a bigger headache when you put everything back together :-)  Now, at this point I advise engaging the keylock if the piano is equipped with one.  Look under the keybed for a lever that will lock the keys in the up, or rest, position.  Your piano may or may not have this wonderful feature.  Upright player keys are front weighted to allow them to "drop" appropriately when the player is working.  It is handy to keep the back end of the keys down when trying to extricate an action and very handy when putting the piano action back in!  </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Okay, here goes, no turning back after this!  GENTLY try to slide the player stack forward.  DO NOT LIFT YET!  The playing "fingers" have to be clear of the underside of their wippen contact before you can lift.  If you haven't missed disconnecting something (DO CAREFULLY CHECK before you go too far) you should be able to slide the stack forward about an inch or so.  At this point securely grab each end, lean in towards the spoolbox, and slightly lift the unit up and towards your upper torso.  They are heavy.  Generally, with three point contact (each hand for lift and upper body for balance) it is possible.  If you start and feel that the weight will be too much (as with the "Metalnola" from Otto Higel) leave the stack in place and get help.  I always do a test lift before I actually go for it.  Remember, save your back!  Bend at the knees and keep your back straight when lowering the unit to the floor (easiest if you lower one end at a time). Think that's it?  Ready to just remove the piano action for repairs?  NO, NO.  Check each end of the hammer rest rail for a mechanical linkage.  In player pianos equipped with bass and treble hammer rail lift this linkage will have to be undone to remove the piano action.  It's easy to forget about this :-) and quite a surprise when the action tries to yank you back into the piano when you so confidently and swiftly try to remove it!</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Now, the big question.  Why not just slide the player action forward and tip and lift the piano action out from behind?  Saves the nerves about possible damage to the stack.  If you are tall and strong enough to lift an upright action totally above your head while leaning forward and reaching over the player stack, it's possible.  It's almost impossible to put the piano action back in using the same approach and you will probably end up with even more damage.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Now, this post is long enough and I have hopefully discouraged loads of people (just kidding).  I will post tomorrow about servicing the piano action in an under the keybed stack situation.  Sounds easy, you say?  Nothing in the way of the piano action if the stack is below the keybed?  Life is not so easy!  Most (not all) are spinets and there's still stuff up top, too.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Your nightmares have just begun.  I must be insane to love this stuff (yeah, yeah, I know).</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Debbie</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>