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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>On to those players that have the stack located in
the bottom of the piano (under the keybed). Although there are a few
"old-time" players set up this way, the vast majority are from the 1960's -
1980's. The most common, in my experience, is the Aeolian (they use a
variety of fallboard names). Kimball, Universal, Baldwin, and Wurlitzer
also made players during the same time period. Each brand has developed
unique problems. Fortunately, this isn't about player repair!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>First, if the player has electric, unplug it from
the wall....you just never know. :-(</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Since the stack is located below the keybed and the
shelf with spoolbox, wind motor, tracking, etc. is located above the keys there
is a lot of tubing running from top to bottom. In some cases, for minor
repairs or adjustments, it is possible to disconnect only linkage, mounting
screws, and the hose to the wind motor. This allows you (if you're lucky
and the bundles of tubing travelling down each end of the shelf to the stack are
long enough and supple enough) to move the shelf forward (or tip it forward) and
gain access to the action. Don't forget those hammer rail lift linkages,
mandolin rail, and hammer rail pneumatics that need to be removed if you have to
extricate the piano action. Some manufacturers provided a way
to hinge the shelf and it's components forward and out of the way. I
can't remember which that was! Oh yeah, if the piano is equipped with an
electric vacuum motor, don't forget about wiring. You may need to find the
connection from top to bottom and unplug it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Now, if for whatever reason, you need to move the
shelf and components further than the tubing will allow, and the tracker bar is
tubed to valves "down below", you've got a project. I have made a device
to keep all those tubes in order. Actually it is a set (2). 45 brass
tracker bar nipples drilled cross-wise and threaded on heavy duty
monofilament. The monofilament is terminated at each end with small
section of half inch dowel. The dowel is labelled on the first grouping as
B1 and then the other end is B45. The second grouping is T1 and
T45. You then sit under the keybed and carefully disconnect each "note"
tube (including any small supply tubes that follow, in order) and connect them
to the "jig" to keep them in order. This doesn't always work
perfectly. You need a lot of patience! Anyway, the "jig" is
very useful for removing Aeolian stacks for service and also those troublesome
Universal stacks. Having the tubes disconnected will allow you to shift
the shelf further without damaging anything.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>In general, with careful observation and note
taking if necessary, it's not too difficult. It is difficult to come up
with general instructions! From 1915-1925 (the height of player
manufacturing in the States) there were over 500 piano manufacturer's producing
players. Some companies developed their own mechanisms such as Kimball and
Baldwin. Others bought player mechanisms from other companies i.e.
Standard Pneumatic, Simplex. There were over 50 player mechanism
manufacturers. They also produced a variety of units. So you may
here reference to "an early two-tier stack" vs. "the later three-tier".
Often individual components were redesigned.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The number one
observation............................</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Although they all work on the same principle, there
is no norm.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Proceed carefully and have fun!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Debbie</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>