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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Jude,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Regarding the tumbler, I guess it's safe to say you
are not keeping them in order, or are you?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Fenton</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=absolutepiano@comcast.net
href="mailto:absolutepiano@comcast.net">Absolute Piano</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, April 02, 2006 9:03
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Agraffes</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Avery,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If you're doing enough rebuilding &
agraffe restoration, I highly recommend investing in a vibratory tumbler and
some Dri-shine III. All small parts now go into the tumbler. Paul's article
was excellent and really raises the bar on these important termination points,
but the time at the buffing wheel imitating his process was killing my
budget. Steinway agraffes are readily available and buying new will give you
that shining brass but as Paul mentions, there's still work to be done even on
the new ones. Most other manufactures will require restoring the original
agraffes. I find that there is about 30 degrees of exceptable play to line the
agraffes up. We draw fishing line through the center of the unison at the
bridge to use as a perpendicular reference for the agraffe placement. Don't go
nuts with shims and be prepare to remove some material (Pianotek carries a
tool for this). It's nice to see more people going a bit further than spray
bombing the agraffes. :)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Jude Reveley, RPT</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Absolute Piano Restoration</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
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<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=joegarrett@earthlink.net
href="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net">Joseph Garrett</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, April 02, 2006 12:28
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Agraffes</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<P>
<DIV>Avery asked: "<FONT size=+0>For my information. If one has to go to
that much trouble, wouldn't it</FONT>
<DIV><FONT size=+0>much easier/better to just replace them with new? Except
maybe in antique</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=+0>type of instrument? Just wondering why one would take
that much time."</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=+0></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=+0>Avery,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>If I'm not mistaken, that was covered in Paul's article.
Short version is: New agraffes aren't any better in some cases. They still
require a lot of labor to get them right. Redoing the olde ones is my
choice.<G> (I hate trial and error fitting of
agraffes!grrrr)</FONT></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Regards,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Joe Garrett, R.P.T. (Oregon)</DIV>
<DIV>Captain, Tool Police</DIV>
<DIV>Squares R I</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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