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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>That sounds like a good idea also Joe. Simple.
Thanks. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Not that it makes any difference here, but new
action = new butts!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Drill out the old hammer butt and use a some what
shorter shank than what you may need to locate the best length. Do not glue
either end unless you have extra hammers to work with. If the shank is too
loose in either hole one can use fine copper winding from a universal bass
string to make the fit tight until the sweet spot is found.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Joe Goss RPT<BR>Mother Goose Tools<BR></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I'm installing a new action in an upright. I
need to find the "sweet" spot up at C88 to determine how long to cut the
shanks (determine strike point). Doing this on a grand piano is so easy by
sliding the action in and out a bit and the hammer assembly can be glued
nice and firm for good sound production. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Does anyone have any suggestions on how to do
this on an upright? If you move the action, the regulation changes, and if
you have the hammer mobile, I fear it is too loose to really get a good
sound. How do you folks do make this determination?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry
Farrell</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>