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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi Terry.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Drill out the old hammer butt and use a some what
shorter shank than what you may need to locate the best length. Do not glue
either end unless you have extra hammers to work with. If the shank is too loose
in either hole one can use fine copper winding from a universal bass string to
make the fit tight until the sweet spot is found.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Joe Goss RPT<BR>Mother Goose Tools<BR><A
href="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com">imatunr@srvinet.com</A><BR><A
href="http://www.mothergoosetools.com">www.mothergoosetools.com</A></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
href="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com">Farrell</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, April 03, 2006 10:59
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Upright Hammer Shank
Length</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I'm installing a new action in an upright. I need
to find the "sweet" spot up at C88 to determine how long to cut the shanks
(determine strike point). Doing this on a grand piano is so easy by sliding
the action in and out a bit and the hammer assembly can be glued nice and firm
for good sound production. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Does anyone have any suggestions on how to do
this on an upright? If you move the action, the regulation changes, and if you
have the hammer mobile, I fear it is too loose to really get a good sound. How
do you folks do make this determination?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry
Farrell</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>