<HTML><HEAD> <META charset=US-ASCII http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff"> <DIV> <DIV>Greetings,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>         I have found that when a hole in an aluminum action rail get s stripped (=which isnt hard to do) Plumber's teflon tape wrapped aroung the screw gets it right back, tightly.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>JUlia Gottshall</DIV> <DIV>Reading, PA</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>In a message dated 4/1/2006 11:12:17 AM Eastern Standard Time, pianolady50@peoplepc.com writes:</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Good Morning,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Although, truthfully, the stripped hole should be drilled and plugged, there are many instances where this is not possible.  Remember, people, I'm a player tech <G>.  A good way to create *new* thread in a wood hole is to first spray the screw with your favorite mold release.  Then with a toothpick as an inserter proceed as follows: cut a small strip of pouch leather, fold it in half lengthwise over the tip of the toothpick, carefully coat with med CA (or put a couple teeny drops in the screw hole).  Insert leather into hole using the toothpick to guide it to the bottom of the hole.  Make sure your strip is long enough to create *tails* at the top, outside of the hole.  Hold these tails apart and down to the surface as you thread in the screw.  Let set five minutes or so.  Remove screw, trim away excess leather tails.  New threaded hole.  BTW, cover your fingers that handle the tails with masking tape!</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Debbie L.</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV> <DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>